My New 72"x20"x20" Tank Build - Page 5

GreenSpottedPuffer · #41 10-31-2007, 04:43 AM

I think you edited your post after and added basically what I was saying but in one sentence instead of a paragraph! LOL

GreenSpottedPuffer · #42 11-01-2007, 01:51 AM

Anymore advice for the closed loop? I think I may just stick to going right to 2" stuff right after the output and then stay at 2". Im just unsure about what to use at each outlet? I don't really want to use loc line...

banditpowdercoat · #43 11-01-2007, 02:21 AM

I have seensome just cut little pipe pieces, heat the end and squish it to create a nozzle. I went Loc Line with mine mainly because this is my first tank, and I dont know exactly how the water should flow and such. so, 7 1/2" loc line nozzles should give me pretty good adjustability......I hope

For almost $100, they better HAHAHA

GreenSpottedPuffer · #44 11-01-2007, 04:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by banditpowdercoat

I have seensome just cut little pipe pieces, heat the end and squish it to create a nozzle. I went Loc Line with mine mainly because this is my first tank, and I dont know exactly how the water should flow and such. so, 7 1/2" loc line nozzles should give me pretty good adjustability......I hope

For almost $100, they better HAHAHA

Yeah I know what you mean! Plumbing is so ridiculously over priced for what it is!

So since I cannot seem to find a 2" Gate Valve in town, you you guys think reducing my overflow return down to 1.5" would be a bad idea? I thought 2" was overkill to begin with, so maybe? I can easily get 1.5" Gate Valves. The return pump is big though (Mag 24) and may need the 2" drains. I really do not know at this point.

The other option would be to scrap the whole herbie thing and do a traditional type overflow and return.

untamed · #45 11-01-2007, 05:30 AM

I wouldn't scrap the entire idea just because you are having a difficult time finding a 2" Gate Valve.

Here's an unconventional idea that could help you test the concept. After testing, you might find that a 1.5" Gate valve might be fine.

Take your 2" drain and split it into 2 lines. Put a 1.5" gate valve on one of the lines. Make the 2nd line 1" for a first test. Rejoin the lines back into a single 2" and continue downward toward your sump and fuge. Put union fittings above and below the tees so you can replace it once you figured out how it behaves.

The idea is that the 1" line functions as some restriction, while the 1.5" gate valve controls the total amount of the flow.

Diagram attached.

GreenSpottedPuffer · #46 11-01-2007, 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by untamed

I wouldn't scrap the entire idea just because you are having a difficult time finding a 2" Gate Valve.

Here's an unconventional idea that could help you test the concept. After testing, you might find that a 1.5" Gate valve might be fine.

Take your 2" drain and split it into 2 lines. Put a 1.5" gate valve on one of the lines. Make the 2nd line 1" for a first test. Rejoin the lines back into a single 2" and continue downward toward your sump and fuge. Put union fittings above and below the tees so you can replace it once you figured out how it behaves.

The idea is that the 1" line functions as some restriction, while the 1.5" gate valve controls the total amount of the flow.

Diagram attached.

Actually thats a pretty good idea. I think though I need to just wait and find a Gate Valve. My fish may just have to hang in there for a bit longer! Its really sad to see the Puffers pacing the glass so much

GreenSpottedPuffer · #47 11-01-2007, 03:57 PM

Well I have called just about all the plumbing businesses within Vancouver that I could get to (without a car) and cannot find a 2" gate valve! I think I may give a 1.5" gate valve a try. I have two questions though...

1. I used the calculator on RC to figure out that my return pump will be putting out around 1600 GPH after head loss and elbows, ect.

I believe a 1.5" bulkhead is about 1600 GPH. It seems like if I reduce the drain down to 1.5" it may not handle the return pump very well or may be cutting it close. Does this make any sense?

2. Why are these so expensive! Is this normal?

http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/s...ct_ID=pl-gv125

untamed · #48 11-01-2007, 04:19 PM

The amount of flow that you can get through any particular pipe is dependent on the head pressure of the water above it. It is actually the reason that Herbie works. I can't tell you how much flow you'll get in your particular situation.

You'll just have to build it to find out!

JL purchases those valves from Corix. Corix sold a 1.5" gate valve to me for $35...(but I was quite a regular customer there!)

mark · #49 11-01-2007, 04:54 PM

For flow amount get in touch with Skimmin on this board.

He's in the process of setting up a tank with a Dart as a return and has been experimenting with Herbies. If not glued up might be able to duplicate your setup for some feedback.

GreenSpottedPuffer · #50 11-01-2007, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by untamed

The amount of flow that you can get through any particular pipe is dependent on the head pressure of the water above it. It is actually the reason that Herbie works. I can't tell you how much flow you'll get in your particular situation.

You'll just have to build it to find out!

JL purchases those valves from Corix. Corix sold a 1.5" gate valve to me for $35...(but I was quite a regular customer there!)

Yeah I do really need to just give it a shot and see how it works for my tank. I have found a 2" Gate Valve from a member here now. New for $20, so a great deal. I feel much better sticking with the 2" drains and valving them back a bit more rather than going with smaller drains. So you were saying to have the primary drain as just a bulkhead right?