![]() |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]() hey if your still looking for large gate valves check out the plumbing supply stores...ie hillcrest plumbing on kingsway.....or B.A. Robinson.
|
#2
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Yeah thanks, I will call Hillcrest tomorrow. I am still looking. I need to get this gate valve by Thursday if possible.
|
#3
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Untamed, for the refugium to sump "herbie", do you think a ball valve would be accurate enough? I agree that for the overflow drain, I need a proper Gate Valve but I was thinking that for the reugium one, a ball valve would do...maybe not though.
|
#4
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() re: Ball valve directing flow to refugium...
I'm thinking that a ball valve will work fine for that application. It will be a bit crude to adjust the flow into the refugium, but once you get it set you'll be fine if you just leave it alone. You'll then be able to fine tune the water exiting the refugium with a gate valve. As the Herbies don't allow any air into the lines, you can always have the pipes exit silently below water line. That also avoids splashing and bubbling which results in less salt creep everywhere.
__________________
400 gal reef. Established April, 2007. 3 Sequence Dart, RM12-4 skimmer, 2 x OM4Ways, Yellow Tang, Maroon Clown (pair), Blonde Naso Tang, Vlamingi Tang, Foxface Rabbit, Unicorn Tang, 2 Pakistani Butterflies and a few coral gobies My Tank: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=28436 |
#5
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
|
#6
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Can't say nothing about the Herbie as but to listen to Untamed as he's experienced with running one.
For the return you should be able to reduce pipe diameter one size to make a little more manageable after the top Tee, build a manifold (such as like here) to even out flow and with multiple outlet not have a great loss. RC calculator might be a guide. |
#7
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
If you are, you say it should be fine to reduce down to a 1.5" PVC after the first "T"? That may help out a lot actually. In a way...Its kind of a weird situation and heres why... The closed loop pump has a 1.5" outlet. The bulkhead that the return is going through is 2". I figured this is good because I always hear its good to go up a size anyways. So like I said, I figured it would work well if I went from 1.5" at the outlet to 2" right away and then through the bulkhead and used a 2" manifold. As I said though, the 2" manifold is a bit tricky to manage. So your idea to reduce down to 1.5" seems good. Maybe I should just use to reducers right around the bulkhead? So basically the pump goes to the bulkhead at 1.5" and goes through at 2" and then goes back to 1.5". Seems kind of weird but I can't change the 2" bulkhead at this point. Any thoughts??? |
#8
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
Also, if your pump has a 1.5" outlet, you may be better off to keep the rise pipe form sump to tank that size. Increasing the vertical pipe to larger will add more water in the vertical colum, thus more weight. More weight the pump has to lift, the more head pressure the pump will see, the less GPH it will flow. On Horizontal, and bends, larger is better, but not uphill. Just ask any Firefighter. I'd much rather haul the 1.5" hose up 3 storys than the 2.5" Just changing the pipe pump outlet pipe to 2" for the bulkhead will be fine, and I think, would be the best bet Last edited by banditpowdercoat; 10-31-2007 at 04:36 AM. |
#9
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
I do understand what you are saying but there was also a specific reason people increase the pipe size on these pumps I just forget why ![]() I know for sure that Mag pumps should always be plumbed with a size bigger pipe. The manufacturer states that themselves. |
#10
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() I think you edited your post after and added basically what I was saying but in one sentence instead of a paragraph! LOL
![]() |