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#1
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![]() I prefer Elos for phosphate testing. I could never figure out how to get one level spoonful of the fluffy granular compound the Salifert kit has. The inevitable rounded spoonful always left me doubting the results.
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Mark. |
#2
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![]() Do you guys really get differing results from colour based test kits? I've never gotten a difference from tank water to reactor output. And I use a photometer now because I started to doubt my results from colour based test kits. And .. well .. in the end even those things I kind of have trouble deciding what my "real" value is because the error is 0.04 (so a true value of 0.04 could read as 0.00 or vice-versa, a true value of 0.04 could read as 0.00).
What kind of numbers do you guys get when testing for phosphate?
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#3
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![]() Considering the cost of the testing and measuring equipment, it might be better just to change the media once a month.
That’s what I do, keep it simple unless you want to get technical, Do I really care what the value of the PO4 is, or do I care how my tank and corals feel like ? ![]() |
#4
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![]() Maybe. The cost of GFO maybe has come down a bit. When it first came out it was like $100 for a little jar of it. At that price, you want to make sure it's being used effectively. I guess at the prices we pay now we can be a little more judicious, but nevertheless it's just ingrained into me that if I pay for media that I want to see the results. But having said that, I can't really tell a difference when my tank reads 0.01 or 0.1. So I'm curious what other people see when they test.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#5
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![]() Quote:
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#6
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![]() The most accurate are probably the digital/electronic's if you have the bucks. I just changed out the media, kind of a PITA, good thing my girlfriend only see's about half the water I spill
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60 Gallon rimless, internal Herbie overflow, ATI Powermodule, Eheim 1250, 2X Tunze 6055, Tunze ATO, Euroreef RS100, Profilux controller, TLF Reactor. |
#7
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![]() I'd go with "precise" over "accurate". At least IME.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#8
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![]() I once read a thread on the Salifert forum where Habib said level as opposed to rounded did not matter to the end readings. However I have not tried the two at once to see.
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Doug |
#9
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![]() I just bought the Hanna LR meter because I was skeptical about the readings from the color based tests. My Merck and Salifert test were reading in the range of 0.015-0.03 but I was still having problems with hair algae and some cyano. My RO/DI water reads 0 with the Hanna meter. However, water from my tank and the phosban reactors (250 ml Rowaphos and 300 ml PhosGuard) ranges from 0.03-0.05. I'm not sure what to make of all this.
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300 gal starphire custom built in pentagon reef (+90 gal sump on Blue Line 100 HD return pump, 210lb LR, Euro-Reef RC250 skimmer, 2x400W MH, 2x28W compacts, 2xTurbelle classic 4002 pumps & Turbelle Stream 6100 on 7095 Multicontroller, running ZEOvit) Livestock Fish: damsels; sailfin, yellow, regal & naso tangs; ocellaris & tomato clowns; lyretail anthias; foxface lo; flame angelfish corals: a few |
#10
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![]() That hair algae and cyano are a pain! I have a lot smaller system, but my cyano seems to have disappeared after months of fighting, but my hair algae has increased. There are some good articles on reefcentral about using a phosban which is what originally sold me on it, but I have yet to see great results. That being said, without me knowing my media may have been exhausted, which is....my fault
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60 Gallon rimless, internal Herbie overflow, ATI Powermodule, Eheim 1250, 2X Tunze 6055, Tunze ATO, Euroreef RS100, Profilux controller, TLF Reactor. |