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  #21  
Old 10-27-2007, 01:55 PM
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You could always run T5s. Much less heat, and not a expensive as Solaris. When I ran them I had to dial back the fan that blew across the top of my tank or my heater would come on in the middle of the day.

Sick of the MH heat thing really... but they do supply most of the heat for my house in winter. I might yet go back to T5s, Hmmm... but I'd loose the ripple effect *sigh*
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  #22  
Old 10-27-2007, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reefer Rob View Post
You could always run T5s. Much less heat, and not a expensive as Solaris. When I ran them I had to dial back the fan that blew across the top of my tank or my heater would come on in the middle of the day.

Sick of the MH heat thing really... but they do supply most of the heat for my house in winter. I might yet go back to T5s, Hmmm... but I'd loose the ripple effect *sigh*
What was the T5 wattage vs the MH wattage that you are running now?
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  #23  
Old 10-27-2007, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briansmyth View Post
400 watt halides on 90 gallon tank in my basement- ran fan on high just above the sump - had to replace evaporated water every day - also had to be careful to have blinds drawn on the basement windows on the really hot days - still got temperature swings of 3 degrees on the really hot days.

Have run with Solaris PFO LED lights for almost a year... no chiller required, temperature fluctuation of 1 degree at most.
Which solaris unit are you running? and how do you find the colour and brightness compares to your MH setup?
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  #24  
Old 10-27-2007, 10:51 PM
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I am running two 400w raduims 20000k On a 130g tank . And no chiller I do own one but tem never goes higher then 81F even in the summer .
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  #25  
Old 10-28-2007, 04:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ron101 View Post
What was the T5 wattage vs the MH wattage that you are running now?
I was running 324 wats over my 72G bow because that's all I could fit over it. I was planning to run 800W of T5s over the 180G that I have now if I went that way.
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