![]() |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Thanks.
Ok I had 110kh on the test result from LFS so what am I looking for (double that at least correct) and how much baking soda do I add slowly to get to normal range for 100 gal tank setup?
__________________
only 25 gal & (6 bulb, t5's fixture & 30 gal sump with small fuge Last edited by fishguyxd; 09-30-2007 at 02:14 AM. Reason: confirming info after looking at web calculator |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Thanks for the link Mark! Us noobs can use handy things like that to increase our knowledge and understanding.
Brad |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Ok If i was looking for 220 kh What would the results be for 100 gal Can some some else use the chart and see what they get for result using baking soda as the product & using Alk button.
I did and I overdosed I am pretty sure because my athina is flopped over so far and a boxer shrimp dead. So I have did a water change and now watching any other idea I can do to help rebound this. my ph is 8.4 sality is 1.023
__________________
only 25 gal & (6 bulb, t5's fixture & 30 gal sump with small fuge Last edited by fishguyxd; 10-02-2007 at 03:13 AM. |
#5
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() What are the units you are trying to measure?
Before you had 110kh, I though was typo for 11.0 KH. If you meant PPM then 110 PPM then was close to target range and probably not worth adjusting. Now if you are going for 220PPM you're out of range on the high side and if going from one extreme to the other specially in one dose could see being detrimental to the tank. ***Above aside, for 100g, 110PPM>220PPM of Baking Soda I get 139.9g.***(unable to repeat, think I put my system volume in) Last edited by mark; 10-02-2007 at 06:14 AM. Reason: amounts |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Were I got 110 from was the test kit 11 drops x10 equaled 110 kh and that test was done at the LFS they said my water test was 110 kh (not ppm) I asked what should I have it at they said twice that. so 220. I must be getting the terms mixed up.(dkh ,ppm ,meg/l ) any links on thesea again i now found reef cent etc have some good reading to do.
So any extreme measure I can do to save everything (only think on my side is I do not have a bunch of corals at this time just some zoo's ricordia , some mushrooms, athinia(had).
__________________
only 25 gal & (6 bulb, t5's fixture & 30 gal sump with small fuge Last edited by fishguyxd; 10-02-2007 at 03:15 AM. Reason: spelling & links |
#7
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() I'm feeling a little responsible here but...
Doing right with the water changes. Also suggest if you going to be adding anything, get a good test kit so you can measure yourself. That way you can monitor changes as you slowly dose so you don't go over. Again slowly in this hobby, reason why one acclimatizes new stock is so that they're not shocked by sudden changes in parameters. Wonder if the test kit was Hagen? Their test has the number of drops x 10 to get hardness in mg/l (PPM). I got sold the big kit from a LFS that I never got around to throw out, so was able to try hardness with it. Though expired, just tested my water and got 11 drops so 110 ppm (within the ideal range from the Hagen pamphlet included with the kit, 105-125mg/l (ocean being 125mg/l)). Interesting thing is this afternoon tested the tank with Salifert (and yes heard of the bad batches) but got 9.6KH (~190ppm). Just with difference between the two, and I'm leaning that the Salifert is more correct, if I would start dosing based on the Hagen I would have driven my alk beyond ideal. Guess the other thing to say if the tank was looking okay before, use that as an indicator if you should be adding anything. |