Profilux II plus aquarium controller

[Aqua-Digital]

Yes they can

Regards
Michael

[AquaCan]

Hello Matthias, I have local WLAN access now, thanks to the member "marsh" from the Reef Central forum for his assisstance.

Could you please explain how to go about setting up for a remote connection to the Profilux via the internet, for example, from another city, country, etc..

Many thanks...
LRS ( AquaCan )

[Matthias Gross]

AquaCan,

I am happy to hear that your WLAN card is finally working, thanks to Marsh!
For a remote connection you need a static IP from your provider or a dynamic DNS - (http://www.dyndns.com/).
Then you must set your router that incoming calls to Port 10001 are redirected to the WLAN-card.

After that you can access your ProfiLux from another location with ProfiLuxControl. Just enter there your DynDNS or static IP.

[LoneStar]

Ok first off I gotta say what a great product this is. I haven't purchased one yet but I really like the capabilities of it. I've been researching the Profilux II on CanReef and also on other forums. I still got a few questions, and I am still making a wish list of all the components I want to attach to the unit (e.g. tunze(s), LED(s), and whatnot).

My first question would be associated to the dimmable ballast option....more specifically dimming a t5 ballast. I have been reading as many websites as I can but haven't seen a whole lot of ballasts on the aquarium vendor sites that sell dimmable ballasts. A few pages back I found the link to the Sylvania ballast, the Sylvania 49673 QT2x54/120 PHO-DIM. I was just seeing what other brands there are that would run t5 high output lights that have the dimming option? I figured out how the unit works, but I'm sure there is more than 1 vendor that makes a ballast like that.

Also, does the circuit board that controlls the dimmable ballast come with a Profilux II? Or is it a accessory option that must be purchased seperatly? If so how much would that cost?

I guess it would help to say I'm located in the US.

Any help would be appreciated. I'm still making a shopping list of Profilux components I want and I'll post them here later to see how I would need to hook them up to the controller.

-Michael

[Aqua-Digital]

Hi,

Here is a link for dimmable ballasts http://www.sylvania.com/content/disp...m&id=003678766

Whatever you choose make sure they are not DALI type!. I will also check to see if the GHL distributor is stocking the correct ballasts for supply.

The control board is seperate, you have a few options depending on your lighting situation. One acts as just an interface and you would have to have the lights on a timer to shut off the main power to the lights when you are at zero point dimming, this is the cheapest option, the second option is an all in one card EVG-AP-2F which has built in zero point switching, it also acts as the interface and can be used for up to 2 ballasts. The second option is a PCB so would need internal mounting. Wiring of both is straight forward.

With regards to prices, the cheapest option would be for the interface board around $19CAD and the more expensive fully switchable unit $39CAD. These are approx prices, but would not be far off the mark.

Hope this helps

Michael
www.aqua-digital.com

[LoneStar]

Originally Posted by Aqua-Digital

Hi,

Here is a link for dimmable ballasts http://www.sylvania.com/content/disp...m&id=003678766

hmm that link didn't work.

Thanks for the heads up on the rest. Its fun putting together a new tank...yet stressful on the equipment searching!!

-Michael

[LoneStar]

This looks like another viable option for a dimmable t5 HO ballast:

Mark 7 0-10v Electronic Dimming Ballast
RZT-2S54

http://advancetransformer.com/upload...Electronic.pdf
(page 14)

OR

Sylvania 49673 QT2x54/120 PHO-DIM

http://www.sylvania.com/content/disp...m&id=003678766

[Aqua-Digital]

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...=26797&page=39

Most odd, it works from the post I placed this under a few months back, click on this link and scroll down to my message under user ID monitors Direct (my old ID) Just tried it, that link works

Just trying again now, see if this works

Pm'd you as well with some further details

Regards
Michael

[LoneStar]

Ok I think I have a good idea on what I am going to hook up to my new controller. I just want to run it by you guys here to see what exactly I will need and how to go about connecting them to the controller (eg with L1/L2 port to use with *blank*, which 'y' connector to use and so on...)

I will start with what I want to connect to the controller:

* (2) IceCap 250w electronic metal halide ballasts
* (1) Sylvania 49673 QT2x54/120 PHO-DIM 0-10v T5 ballast (for the dimming t5's)
* (2) Tunze Stream 6100's
* pH probe (which I believe comes with the standard kit 1)
* temp probe (which I believe comes with the standard kit 1)
* LED red, bluewhite + flash stick (I have a 156g tank, and I figure this would work better than just 1 LED spotlight version)
* LAN interface (I'm leaning towards just a LAN connection vs a WLAN due to price and location of the tank)
* Profilux View II remote display (need to know how this hooks up to the main controller)

Ok what I need to know is what Profilux cables I will need to connect these items to their ports on the controller. Also if there is any information on the lengths of each cable, that will help in my design

* Profilux II Controller Kit 1 (contains the pH probe, temp probe, and at Tunze cable)

* I will need another Tunze cable since I am running 2 streams. Which one do I need?

* LED bar. Since this plugs into the L1/L2 or L3/L4 ports, and I will have 1 Tunze pump on L1/L2 and the other Tunze on L3/L4, would I need to get a splitter? If so, which one? The way I understand the splitters is that it will plug into a L1/L2 port. Then the splitter will provide a specific L1 port and then a specific L2 port. So basically its safe to say in the 'phone cord' connection, each L port uses 2 wires for signal transfer (with 4 being in each cable)? What I'm really trying to achieve here is to make sure the Tunze pumps work seperatly from each other, thus having to be on seperate L ports. Then I can plug a LED bar in, with a splitter.

* Dimmable T5 ballast. What is the name/part number of the 0-10v adapter? How does it connect to the controller? Does it use a L port? So if I have it hooked up to a splitter with a Tunze, will it all work OK?

So from what I gather now, I will have these items filled on the L ports:

L1/L2: L1 being a Tunze L2 being a LED light bar
L3/L4: L3 being a Tunze L4 being a 0-10v dimmer

* The pH and temp probes have their own ports

* The LAN will basically be a riser card. The plan is to run it directly to a computer. If later down the road I hook it up to a wireless access point (X brand), will this still work with the controller?

* How does the Profilux II remote display connect to the controller?

Sorry for the long drawn out questions, but it's basically going to help me (and others) in determining what accessory cables will be needed when ordering a unit. Thanks for any help!

-Michael

[Aqua-Digital]

Hi,

Ok baby steps, lets break this down into parts for you.

Firstly, you would be wise to go for the connect pack as this already has LAN in it and will save you a lot of money, unless of course there are parts in it you do not require, then it would be wise to build your own system pack as you require.

Moving onto Tunze cables.

To run two tunzes you require a YL2-1 splitter cable that plugs into L1/L2 and splits the port, you then require Tunze1 and Tunze 2 cables, you cant use anything other than GHL supplied western adapters as the wiring is unique to both Tunze and GHL. With regards to cable length, up to 5 meters is available.

The LED you have chosen is fine and will plug straight into L3 L4.

If you require dimmable lighting, you will need to split the L3 L4 port with another splitter cable.

The part number for the dimmable interface with zero volt shut off is EVG-AP-2F

Wiring is striaght forward. the dimmable ballasts come with a 1-10V control line, this is just twisted pair wiring,, take the pair from the ballast and wire into the EVG card, and then plug the supplied western cable into the EVG card and Profilux. The power for the lights then is wired into the EVG card also and power for this card must be from a constant source.

It may be worth getting WLAN now if you are even contemplating going down this road it is cheaper now than later.

The profiview attaches to the back of the profilux via the RS232 cable

Let me know if I have missed anything

Regards
Michael