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#1
07-24-2007, 06:35 PM
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You could probably automate water changes with a large degree of security using the Profilux. Maybe Fudge can chime in on this one?
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This and that. 
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#2
07-24-2007, 08:34 PM
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I'm tagging along because I want to see all the suggestions that come from this.
All I can really suggest for you is regarding ballast placement. We used to have a separate rack/shelf for them with their own fans. It originally was above all the lights. In my new tank its screwed into the side of the tank stand, out of the way and in no danger of getting wet.
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#3
07-24-2007, 11:12 PM
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I enclosed the top of my tank and used 3 small 4" fans through floor vents to keep it cool. This worked with only one 400W MH fixture (which also had an ice cap fan). However, I added a second 400W MH pendent with no fan and it is too hot. My fans are on the same timer as my MH lights. I currently have the doors above the tank constantly open (looks ugly).
Are you planning on going reef? I am considering the Solaris LED lighting (less heat but $$$$) or eventually going to a Fish only system and using fluorescent lighting. Consider using several fans (larger than the small computer fans) or somehow venting it to the outside. 
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300 gal starphire custom built in pentagon reef (+90 gal sump on Blue Line 100 HD return pump, 210lb LR, Euro-Reef RC250 skimmer, 2x400W MH, 2x28W compacts, 2xTurbelle classic 4002 pumps & Turbelle Stream 6100 on 7095 Multicontroller, running ZEOvit) Livestock Fish: damsels; sailfin, yellow, regal & naso tangs; ocellaris & tomato clowns; lyretail anthias; foxface lo; flame angelfish corals: a few
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