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#1
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![]() Greg,
That sux! If it was my tank I would keep doing water changes until the nitrates reach zero. The corals are already shocked and stressed anyhow. I would keep a close eye on the salinity, that would be my main concern. Is your new skimmer working well? sometimes a new skimmer takes time to really break in..I would do a 10%-20% water change 3X a week for the next few weeks until the skimmer is running at full efficiency. BTW - lost my bubble gum due to overheating last week ![]() |
#2
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![]() Rather than a bunch of small changes have you considered one large one? I think small changes daily would be very stressful where a large change (30-40%...maybe even 50%) once a week would in the long run be less stressful on everything.
Just my thoughts..... Scott |
#3
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![]() Short of doing a 100% water change you actually can't do water changes to zero - but you can make a significant reduction before you hit the point of diminishing returns.
4 - 10% water changes would leave you at 65% nitrates from before, whereas 1 - 40% water change (same water volume changed out) would leave you 60%. Not too much different. But 10 - 10% water changes leaves you with 34% nitrates from before, whereas 1 - 100% water change (again same water volume) leaves you with zero. Kind of hard to do a 100% water change though ![]() Nitrates don't have to be zero. If you can get them to <10 you're pretty much set, let the tank handle the rest. Less is better but that can be handled with careful nutrient management (ie. skimming, watching how much you feed, pruning macro algae, etc.). What are the current nitrate readings?
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#4
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![]() I vote for just doing continutal smaller water changes. Overall the system is less affected as there are no large changes happening all at once. My 230g developed a nitrate problem when we were forced to run skimmerless for 3 weeks. Just be consistant with your water changes, and it will eventually sort yourself out.
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#5
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![]() Quote:
I would respectfully disagree. Small water change is Less stressful then one big one even if this means cleaner water, this does not mean large change of any sort is good for you inhabitants. JMIO. |
#6
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![]() You might want to try this. Reduces nitrates like a dream. However it doesn't cure the problem (if indeed you do have one). But better than a billion water changes (while good for the tank, not so good for the back)
http://oceanaquatics.com/store/produ...traLife-100ml/ Takes about 24 hours to reduce nitrates and phosphates. Clouds up the water for a bit (its clay-ish) but then clears. Pretty neat product ![]()
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#7
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![]() Quote:
Remember some one mentioned that German tanks with creasy SPS colors had a haze to it? They use clay too, to increase skimming and No3 reduction. |
#8
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![]() Quote:
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__________________
Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#9
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![]() Good point !
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#10
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![]() Quote:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/rhf/index.php "The normally encountered differences in calcium, magnesium, alkalinity, nitrate, phosphate, silica, pH, etc., are unlikely to unduly stress organisms during water changes up to 30-50% using natural seawater or aerated artificial seawater, in my opinion." In this article it says up to 50%. You do need to be aware of water temp and a few other things, but I'm still not convinced that a fish/coral living in a toilet that needs flushing, is better than flushing. I have read a few articles stating this or similar types of opinions and even one up to 80%. I think alot depends on how bad the nitrates are. Scott |