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#1
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![]() Hey Doug,
For functionality I would love to have the false wall cap be taller but esthetics (AKA my fiance) are (is) winning the battle on the tank design - hence the reason for doing everything I can to hide the equipment as much as possible. *Ouch! That whip stings!* When I discussed setting up the tank with my fiance she became interested and loved the idea with the caveat that it not look like a science experiment and that it look more like a piece of furniture/art work. So she started looking with me on discussion boards for tank designs that she liked. She liked the contemporary look of the open top frameless tanks and Japanese style tanks. For example she liked this person's tank but didn't like the wires on the wall from the suspended lights (therefore I'm compromising by using a less obtrusive Coralife Aqualight Pro Clip-on 150W HQI) and she didn't like seeing the plumbing in the overflow boxes (therefore I'm building a cap over the false wall): ![]() After looking into options today I think I'll likely end up having to run a JBJ ATO to keep up with the evaporation, but the up side is that the tank will require less daily maintenance for me.
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SPS Dedicated 24x24x20 Trimless Tank | 20 g Sump | Bubbble King Mini 160 Protein Skimmer w/ Avast Swabbie | NP Biopellets in TLF Phosban Reactor | ATI Sunpower 6 x 24W T5HO Fixture | EcoTech Vortech MP20 | Modified Tunze Nanostream 6025 | Eheim 1260 Return Pump | GHL Profilux Standalone Doser dosing B-Ionic | Steel Frame Epoxy Coated Stand with Maple Panels embedded with Neodymium Magnets "Mens sana in corpore sano" |
#2
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![]() The best way to achieve that look Andrew, would be to run a sump and a black acylic covered overflow.
![]() How high will the hood be?
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Doug Last edited by Doug; 06-30-2007 at 10:28 PM. |
#3
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![]() ![]() The flat piece shown hovering above the tank is just a sort of exploded view of the "cap" as I've been referring to it. That piece is going to sit on top of the first overflow baffle and then on little struts that will be siliconed at fairly wide intervals across the most expansive part of the far right hand chamber so that the cap sits flush with the top of the glass. I will have to cut out a few notches for power cords and the mounting bracket for the Coralife clip-on light. However, if I end up adding the ATO I'll end up having to elevate this cap a bit (essentially making an inverted / open bottomed box) to allow the return tubing to come in to the chamber from behind rather than up and in (again, so it's not seen). Here's a pic of what I was trying to explain above regarding my initial intention (although now it seems I may very well have to elevate this cap to accomodate the ATO as I suggested above) ![]()
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SPS Dedicated 24x24x20 Trimless Tank | 20 g Sump | Bubbble King Mini 160 Protein Skimmer w/ Avast Swabbie | NP Biopellets in TLF Phosban Reactor | ATI Sunpower 6 x 24W T5HO Fixture | EcoTech Vortech MP20 | Modified Tunze Nanostream 6025 | Eheim 1260 Return Pump | GHL Profilux Standalone Doser dosing B-Ionic | Steel Frame Epoxy Coated Stand with Maple Panels embedded with Neodymium Magnets "Mens sana in corpore sano" Last edited by Canadian; 06-30-2007 at 11:30 PM. Reason: Added pic to show what I so ineptly tried to explain |
#4
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![]() OK, I see now.
It will be hard to have an elevated water level, and thus the skimmer higher and still have a low cap, unless the skimmer cup sticks out. If using an ATO, the water level could be lower as you mentioned and then the skimmer, {again not sure on nano skimmers}, could be run in supm mode, sitting on the tanks bottom. Its also not water level specific in this mode and the cap could sit where you wish it then.
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Doug |