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  #1  
Old 05-29-2007, 03:16 AM
Moogled Moogled is offline
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Sorry, but the line between a Tek Light and MH/LED Lighting is very clear. Only someone that hasn't researched the pros/cons of the lighting in question would take offense - which I don't. There's no point in creating a hypothetical situation about my Tek Light and LED systems and then assume my actions, especially since there's a very real example in this thread here.

I shot down your opinion? Brother, please. I made a suggestion where I blatantly state that a Tek Light is better overall than 2 Hagen light fixtures - plus technical features that define the essential success. Remember, I said that it isn't a question of whether your light works or not - it does - it's a question of which one is better and I answered that promptly.

Coral placement says alot about a lighting system - it's not a "mute" point.

Come to think of it, you're pretty much saying what I said several posts earlier.

"Yeah, the Hagen light fixtures work, but if you want to keep SPS and LPS - then you'll need to buy a better light system. I only keep my SPS frag at the top because I know my limitations."

Good - I knew your limitations too. Once again, not knocking your choice but making a very objective analysis.

BTW, I don't find this bickering seeing as how I try to make valid points. You might find my biases a bit strong but everyone is opinionated.
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Old 05-29-2007, 03:27 AM
Moogled Moogled is offline
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http://www.canreef.com/ftotm/may06a/index.php

http://www.canreef.com/ftotm/sept06/index.php

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-05/totm/index.php

These tanks all have acros on the lower portion of their tank - possibly deep water acros. Like you said, alot of reef keepers like to keep acros high up for two reasons:

1. Aesthetics - corals grow upwards.

2. Maximize (keyword) SPS growth.

The light you're using serves a third reason - your acro would most likely not thrive if it was placed lower in your tank due to a lack of light penetration. If that's the case, how many acros would you keep? The point being illustrated is that a better lighting system also allows a larger variety of locations for coral to be placed.
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Old 05-29-2007, 04:14 AM
JOSH JOSH is offline
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thanks for all the opinions. The tank I'm considering building will only be 12" deep, 36" long and 16" wide. I doubt i'll require the lighting strength of MH. I would prefer to use T5 as as I understand it they are cheaper to run, bulbs last a long time and the bulbs are cheap to replace. I would like to keep mainly lps and some sps.

thanks again for your help
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Old 05-29-2007, 04:28 AM
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Excellent choice for that depth of tank The only thing you might want to research further is the price of replacement bulbs. For good quality bulbs they are not cheap.
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  #5  
Old 05-29-2007, 04:37 AM
Moogled Moogled is offline
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German ATI bulbs cost roughly $25 each.
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Old 05-29-2007, 04:48 AM
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Boy those prices have come down - mind you when I replace mine I am looking at 4 60" bulbs so they were running me about $50 a piece. Which reminds me I should look at replacing mine
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Old 05-29-2007, 04:55 AM
albert_dao albert_dao is offline
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Of note, I sell HOT5 retrokits YAY!
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Old 05-29-2007, 04:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOSH View Post
thanks for all the opinions. The tank I'm considering building will only be 12" deep, 36" long and 16" wide. I doubt i'll require the lighting strength of MH. I would prefer to use T5 as as I understand it they are cheaper to run, bulbs last a long time and the bulbs are cheap to replace. I would like to keep mainly lps and some sps.

thanks again for your help
Hey Josh,

For your application, I would suggest starting with a two bulb HO T5 setup for your application. Trust me, T5's are BRIGHT.

I have 4 bulbs per foot and it's so powerful I can't keep corals in the top 6" of my tank. If your tank's only 12" deep, I'd suggest way fewer bulbs.

Sunlight supply DOES make a 3', 2 bulb, T5 Tek retrofit fixture that'd be round $130. I think that would be almost perfect in build quality and price. Ask around at the LFS's if they'd order you one, or e-mail jlaquatics.com and ask if they'd special order one.

Start with two HO bulbs with individual parabolic reflectors, and it'd be fine for what you're starting off with, then upgrade down the road if needed. I can pretty much assure you you won't have to upgrade though

btw how come most T5 threads get SO heated?
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Last edited by kwirky; 05-29-2007 at 05:18 AM.
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  #9  
Old 05-29-2007, 11:04 PM
JOSH JOSH is offline
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Thanks Guys, couple more questions...

How long can I expect a T5 bub to last?
Will a 2 3' long bulbs cover the width of a 16" tank?

thanks again
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  #10  
Old 05-30-2007, 03:07 AM
Moogled Moogled is offline
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According to the Lighting Research Center:

How long do T5 lamps last before they burn out?
Lamp manufacturers claim that T5 and T5 high output (T5 HO) lamps last 20,000 hours (Philips Lighting 2001/2002; OSRAM SYLVANIA 2002; GE Lighting 2001/2002). This average rated lamp life is measured at temperatures between 15°C (59°F) and 50°C (122°F) when operated on electronic programmed start ballasts on a three-hour switching cycle—3 hours on and 20 minutes off—and designated as the number of hours after which 50% of the lamps fail. The 20,000-hour lamp life of T5 lamps is the same as the lamp life of most T8 lamps, although newly developed prolonged-life T8 lamps have lives of 4,000 or 10,000 hours longer than T5 lamps. Lamps operated on longer burning cycles will have longer life spans. Shorter burning cycles (frequent switching on and off) reduce lamp life. Use of ballasts that do not meet lamp requirements set forth by the lamp manufacturers may also result in reduced lamp life.


http://www.lrc.rpi.edu/programs/nlpi...s/lat5/pc8.asp
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