Float Valve Problems

[Pescador]

My RO/DI is hooked up to a 20g garbage can with a Kent float valve.
The float valve stays clean being in fresh water, if it were to stick you flood the can not your tank.
Then you can use your top up method of choice from the can to your tank. I've been using the Blue-line Tsunami AT-1 but there are others.

[Todd]

I recognize the possibility for disaster here, but having a 40g reservoir sitting above the level of my sump would put the same sort of pressure on the float valve and would result in the same situation (of the valve leaking), and would have nearly the same consequences as having the RO directly plumbed in minus a few gallons extra on the floor.

I figured this way was going to be easier then the large garbage can method (that's what I was going to do in the first place), as I wouldn't have to worry about raising the can above the sump level, and I wouldn't have to haul a bunch of water across the house (as my RO in in the Bedroom sink and the tank is across the house in the living room). Plus this way I don't have to worry about a hose drilled / siliconed in letting go.

Regardless of all that, I found out what the problem was after playing around for an hour this morning. The seal where the RO line came in was no good anymore, so after taking it all apart and putting on some teflon tape its working well! 5 hours of being hooked up (at full pressure) and the level in the sump is dead on. I am going to turn the RO's 5g pressurized reservoir off and throttle back the input on the RO unit anyways.

Thanks for the info on the shutoff valve / pressure solenoid, Christy and 220G. I don't have the valve but it is something that I am going to look into for the future.

[mark]

Just a comment/question from the other side (I'm using a float valve made for furnace humidifiers).

How many people out there have had their basements flooded or heard of other people having problems with their furnace humidifier. Seems the only problem I've ever heard, relating to the valve, was is they wouldn't flow.

Guessing there's more humidifiers than fish tanks.

[untamed]

My FW holding tank is nearly 100 gallons, and it is 3 feet off the ground. Since the water line is JG tubing (really small), the Kent float valve easily holds the pressure.

Nevertheless, I do have a float switch solenoid that will close the line in the event of unusually high water level in the sump.

[mark]

Originally Posted by untamed

My FW holding tank is nearly 100 gallons,

How is the FW water maintained (sealed container, do you keep it aerated, agitated, any concerns of undesirable grow etc)?

[danny zubot]

I am going to turn the RO's 5g pressurized reservoir off and throttle back the input on the RO unit anyways.

Thats what I did prior to getting the auto shut off celeniod Christy mentioned above. It helps to save water any way.

Another bonus to having the auto top system running directly into the sump that many haven't thought of; Having fresh cold water frequently dumped into the tank also helps with cooling. My temp has been reduced about .75 to 1 degree since I added the top off system.

[wickedfrags]

Be mindful to use food grade storage containers for your RO/RODI water (or glass or acrylic of course). Especially important for somewhat long-term storage of water, some plastics have been known to leach plastics into the make-up water.

[TedH]

Originally Posted by mark

Just a comment/question from the other side (I'm using a float valve made for furnace humidifiers).

How many people out there have had their basements flooded or heard of other people having problems with their furnace humidifier. Seems the only problem I've ever heard, relating to the valve, was is they wouldn't flow.

Guessing there's more humidifiers than fish tanks.

I'm using the same system. I tried a Coralife float on my reservior and flooded my basment with R/O water. Since switching to the humidifier float I've had no further problems. Picked the float up at Home Hardware for 10 bucks. You couldn't use this one with salt water because it has a metal pin for the float lever, but since it isn't actually in the water it is fine for the R/O water.