30g Nano Cube

[michika]

Der_Iron_Chef,

Here is how I set it up:

I started with my Phosban reactor, then I removed the sponges.


I added on tubing for the intake and output.


I used John Guest fittings because the tubing fit over the fittings.


Then I added in Kalk powder from LittleSilverMax, and hooked it up to my top off pump. I'm only using 2 teaspoons of powder in the reactor at the moment. After that I shook up the reactor, and manuvered all the bubbles out. I've adjusted the drip rate to be avoid spiking my pH, and arranged for it to drip in a high flow area, in this case, the output of my skimmer. Now I just have to remember to shake the reactor up every few days.

I hope this helps, or at least clarifyies the process. Let me know if you need more information.

[michika]

The tank is having a few nasty outbreaks. I'm experiencing cyano, and in the last two days a sudden bloom of green hair algae.

Lately every time I do something in the tank I seem to make an accidental frag, so I have a bunch of frags I'm starting to grow out for sale.

I'm seeing my SPS coloring up with brighter, and more distinct colors.
This is a frag from 5/23

This is the same frag on 5/25

Under the actinics only

I expect it to eventually darken out like its parent

I recently added more inverts to my cleaning crew. I added in bumblebee snails, and blue leg hermits to help give more live to the tank, and for some added benefits.

I will be fixing the lighting issue (too yellow) this weekend, by replacing the 10,000K PC bulb with an actinic.

The plan right now is to
- figure out whats wrong with my auto-top off float switches
- combat the green hair algae
- combat the cyano
- Ensure my Ca levels stay steady via the kalk. reactor
- Look into a calcium reactor, and a 2.5lb CO2 bottle.
- stop making accidental frags

[Der_Iron_Chef]

Does SPS break that easily? Not having dabbled with SPS, I'm ignorant!

[michika]

My blue-tip stag seems to be rather fragile compared to other SPS I've kept. It also happens that I have been rather clumsy as of late when working around it.

To me SPS is fragile in general, but more so when its branches are long, and thin.

[michika]

The tank has moved, and I'm sorry to say I missed how it used to be aquascaped.

The tank now looks like this, aka an algae farm! I'm not impressed with it at this moment.

A month ago I was experiencing a cyano bloom, and issues with the balance between my calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium. The cyano has subsided, but in its place is now, what I have tentatively identified as bryopsis, and green hair algae. Thankfully my aformentioned levels are balancing out, and remaining constant. The levels are still lower then my goals, but they stopped fluctuating, so I'm pleased in that respect. I'm still actively trying to get the levels up to where I want them.

I added a Hydor Koralia 1 to add additional flow to the front center of the tank. I'm pleased to say that I see a nice change in the corals in its path; great polyp extention, and no algae in its path.

The magnetic base

The actual powerhead, side view

I've also added a chiller, as I didn't account for the crazy heat in my new place. I picked up a 1/4HP Aqua Logic chillder from Mr.Alberta for an awesome price. The tank now runs at a happy 79-80 constantly. This is my favorite new addition as I'm constantly worried about the temperature of the tank now.

So right now I'm focusing on beating my hair algae, and bryopsis problems. I think its triggered by three things, so I'm focusing heavily on getting these all under control.

1) Water quality, I had to give up my RO/DI unit when I moved, I've been using Prime as a water conditioner in the meantime. I'm going to try and find a new unit with a sink adaptor ASAP.

2) Lighting, I've been complaining about how I feel my lighting is too yellow. I learned that yellow lighting may contribute to the growth of my algae problem. So I've ordred a new PC light, actinic this time, to balance out the yellow of the 10K MH.

3) Flow, flat out I think my flow (Hydor not included) is insufficient. I'll be looking into re-aquascaping for better flow, upgrading my return pump from a Mag 7, and changing the position of my Hydor.

I've also had a few great oppertunities to pick up some lovely frags, and have gone ahead and placed a few orders. I'm excited to see more colors in my tank soon. Right now the dominant colors are blues, greens, and browns.

On that note here is a recent shot of the frag I posted previously. This one is under both MH and PCs.

And to round this post out, a few photos of my still tiny Orange shoulder tang.

[fishytime]

Is buying bottled RO or DI water from the grocery store not an option? I started my 20g with tap water and promptly switched to store bought RO. Since then my algea issues have been slowly going away. I find that with a 20g tank I only use about a bottle and a half of water a week( between top-offs and my 4g ish water change) so it only costs about $7.

[michika]

Originally Posted by fishytime

Is buying bottled RO or DI water from the grocery store not an option? I started my 20g with tap water and promptly switched to store bought RO. Since then my algea issues have been slowly going away. I find that with a 20g tank I only use about a bottle and a half of water a week( between top-offs and my 4g ish water change) so it only costs about $7.

I can only wish I was so lucky as to be able to do that. The "RO/DI" water from the local store is horrible, it has a high TDS reading, thus making it unfit for use. My tanks have almost always been run with RO/DI, so this tap water thing is kind of new for me.

My tank current evaporates between 4-5g per day due to the heat in my suite. Then there is the ~10g water change I do each week. I would be going through a good bit of water each week.

You did give me an idea though, perhaps, if I can't source out an RO/DI system that works with my exisiting taps, then maybe I'll look into having water delivered from a water company. Thanks for the idea!