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#1
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![]() If you like the vertical grain then that is how you should orient it. There are many possible solutions to the joint problem, You could choose to make it frame and panel style, use a moulding to cover the seam, use an accent filler to highlight the seam or a small groove to do the same. If you truely want a single clean panel, that should be doable with carefull jointing of the seam. Usually the finish veneer of a cabinet grade plywood sheet will be multiple stips and not a single wide piece of veneer. The veneer is bookmatched to minimize the jointline visibility. With carefull selection of the plywood and choice of where you cut the sections of the panel from it, you should be able to visually eliminate the joint in much the same manner. Then its just a matter of making a nice tight flush joint between the two pieces. Some manner of joinery to reinforce the joint, like a tounge-and-groove. rabbet or biscuits will be needed to ensure the joint does not open up later.
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I retired and got a fixed income but it's broke. Ed _______________________________________ 50 gallon FOWLR, 10 gallon sump. 130 gallon reef, 20 gallon sump, 10 gallon refugium. 10 gallon quarantine. 60 gallon winter tank for pond fish. 300 gallon pond with waterfall. |
#2
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![]() Hmmm - I'm not sure I even understand all of those words
![]() ![]() I don't have a router - in fact basically the tools I have to work with fall into the categories of "hammer," "saw," "drill", "sander" and "glue." Another possibility - I could see what kind of cabinet doors would fit, then use those as prefab panels and then just frame out the bits in between. I did my 75g stand this way and I think it looks pretty nice - only difference is there I do use the cabinet doors as doors whereas for this tank they would be permanently fixed. the downside is that I'd have to put something in behind like styrofoam or whatever to act as a noise barrier, since there will be a tiny gap of the door sitting on top of the wood it sits on.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#3
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![]() Is it not possible to buy true veneers anymore? At one point I remember standing at (I think it was totem) looking at rolls of veneer thinking how easy that could be to add to a stand for the right look...
Also check some of the non big-box wood retailers - As I'm sure cabinet makers / wood workers occasionally are looking for specific grain orientations for their projects.
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#4
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![]() "Myself" I wouldn't go vertical I don't think it wouldn't look right with a seam in the middle, usless maybe you broke into 1/3 and did something with trim to hide the seams. Going vertical will make the tank look but horizontal will make it look longer.
Or you could stick with your plan and have the seam and take on my motto " If someone is looking that close .....they are either going to buy or steal it" Murminator OUT !!!
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Murray I reserve the right to hijack any thread I want to!! My carbon footprint is bigger than your carbon footprint !!!! |
#5
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![]() Keep your grains horizontal to match the flow of the long tank. Also use a piece of matching T molding in between the sheets that's centered so your eye's focus on the tank not the stand.
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#6
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![]() You could use my router if you lived closer. I'd either go with a 72 inch strip OR use veneer. I'd not worry about the grain though, with my stand I used red oak and the horizontal strips look as nice as the vertical ones, regardless of the grain.
Doug |