Dying Torch Coral...!

[fishbait]

Yes, we did just pick up the system recently. The tank has remained stable since the move - no spikes in any of the levels that we have been watching (all the ones above). That said, we may have jumped the gun a bit in introducing corals - the LFS didn't seem to think it was a big problem though, so we took the plunge.

As I am typing I am preparing some extra salty water - I will introduce a few gallons tonight and some more tomorrow to try to raise the salinity a notch or two. I am also going to move the torch up higher, get him closer to the lights.

I didn't realize the blue T5's don't really count towards total wattage..? Can someone expand on the reasoning for that a bit further?

We've been using the cheap Hagen kits for Nitrates and Ammonia (came with the tank). The same kit for pH (a new one) didn't even give us a valid reading - it was way off the charts. Instead I borrowed a digital pH meter from my Dad and that's what gave us the 7.9 figure.

[fishbait]

Ok, I've added in the salt (I had some saltwater already made, so an additional half a cup dissolved quite fast) - I think it brought up the whole system about .007 - I'm getting close to 1.022 now. I will do the same tomorrow, then maybe wait a day and do it once more... how long is a good amount of time for these sorts of changes?

[Borderjumper]

What are you using to check your salinity? Swingarms can be totally off. I had 2 and each one gave me a way different reading. Get a refractometer.. one of the best investments you can make!

Be careful putting in "new" saltwater. It really should sit overnight before you use it.

[BCOrchidGuy]

Hagen and Tetra are both bargain test kits, in my opinion I wouldn't use either. I rather liked SeaChem test kits and there are other premium kits out there but Salifert has my vote as I said before. What are you using to test S.G.? Make sure if it's a plastic one with the arm that floats that there are no micro bubbles attatched to the arm, rinse it well in fresh water before you test S.G. (in my opinion) and DO NOT make sudden changes in salinity or pH, even reducing bad stuff to quickly can be bad. The old saying, doing something is better than doing nothing isn't always the best approach, first off you have to know if your test kits are accurate, one way to test for ammonia is to add a drop or two of ammonia to a mixing bowl of water then test and make sure your kit shows the ammonia... just an idea.

Doug

[Raf]

looks like that torch is doomed IMO.

also, test for copper, I could not figure out why all my new corals, snails and shrimp were dying when I added them until I tested the tap water...sure enough, copper.

[Johnny Reefer]

Originally Posted by fishbait

.... I didn't realize the blue T5's don't really count towards total wattage..? Can someone expand on the reasoning for that a bit further? ....

Assuming the blue lights you are refering to are actinics....they are for aesthetic purposes, ie: they allow the more vibrant colours of marine life to be visible. They do not actually provide the correct spectrum for sustainability and growth.

Cheers,

[fishbait]

I don't have a copper test - though we are using an RO filter which I believe is supposed to remove all that good stuff.

Perhaps I should consider swapping out one or both of the actinics for regular T5 bulbs?

[Johnny Reefer]

Originally Posted by fishbait

.... Perhaps I should consider swapping out one or both of the actinics for regular T5 bulbs?

I don't know. I've said enough about the lights. Like I said...I don't know anything about the strength of T5's. BC Orchid Guy says they're okay. Maybe someone else can chime in?

Cheers,

[Scavenger]

All I can say is my torch is very finicky to flow. If it isn't a gentle upward sweeping (bottom to top) current, it won't extend fully. If the flow is far too strong, it looks similar to the posted pic.

I won't speak for water quality, parameters, ect, for I know not!