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#1
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![]() I have to agree with Colin this is great support and will upgrade to a 6D when they are available. Until that point I was going to modify my Dimming Curve to get around the relay sticking. Can anyone see a problem with this setup?
Before: 2 points 1 - 10:30am, 5 minutes, 100% 2 – 6:25pm, 5 minutes, 0% After: 4 points 1 – 10:30am, 5 minutes, 100% 2 – 6:25pm, 5 minutes, 0% 3 – 6:31pm, 5 minutes, 1% 4 – 6:32pm, 5 minutes, 0% This causes the socket relay to be quickly turned on and off 1 minute after the light shuts down. This falls within the 5 minute lamp cool-down period for the IceCap ballasts so if the light does go out at 6:30 the power flash at 6:32 doesn’t turn the light back on. Thanks again
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Jeff |
#2
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![]() @jrm99:
your dimming curve setting - for what is it good for? Now you have 2 times switching on the lamp - that means 2x stress for the relay. I would recommend to alter it again to the first settings. Quick solution for the moment until the digital powerbar is vailable: An easy way to reduce the inrush-current is to raise up the electric resistance - eg insert a long extension cord between powerbar and lamp. Should be no problem since the average current (after inrush) is not very high. @MNSPS + Psyire: You can connect two tunze cables to one port when you use a Y-adapter. If both pumps should be controlled separately the cables must be different: Tunz1 and Tunze2 Or you connect one cable to one port (L1L2) and the other cable to the other port(L3L4) - then both pumps are contollable separately anyway - doesn't matter if tunze1 or 2. But then both ports are occupied for just 2 pumps. Any 1-10V-port has 2 channels Tunze1 means: react on first of both channels of one port (L1 or L3) Tunze2 means: react on secondof both channels of one port (L2 or L4) |
#3
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![]() MNSPS
I saw your thread on RC ,this is going to be an impresive set up ,good job my friend ,it looks like you have put a lot of time & research into this. You better make some room for the T5 bulbs in your hood design . we will have dimmable ballasts soon & profilux can dim the T5 for sunrise & sunset effect ,this feature is already built into your profilux. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=939634 great job
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support@prolineaquatics.com |
#4
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![]() support@proline,
Thanks! There will be 4 -48" T5's in the hood along with two halides. I would definitely like to dim the T5's using the Profilux. What type of adapter cable is needed to do this? I also want to use the Profilux controller to control two dosing pumps to add a 2 part calcium additive. I have been looking at the Vario 1 Pro dosing pumps. Do you know what type of dosing pumps other Profilux user’s use? I'm also planning on using the mechanical float switch I received along with an optical float switch for my sump top off. Is there a diagram or picture somewhere that shows how the float switch mounting bracket should be assembled? I tried to assemble it myself and cannot figure it out. Chris |
#5
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![]() Chris
I will not be in the office today ,I will post a picture of connection for you hopefully tomorrow .It is very easy to work with. Dimmable ballasts ,will have a 1-10 v connection which is the part that gets connected to Profilux. As for the Dosing Pump ,I am not sure what brand the guys in germany use ,I will ask Matthias.He also told me he has a dosing pump in the works ,I am not sure when they will be released though ,I am sure he will chime in. Jason
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support@prolineaquatics.com |
#6
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![]() Thanks Jason.
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#7
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![]() Hi Chris
Here is a picture of the Dimmable T5/T8 module ,very easy to wire the wiring supplied will be hooked to profilux & the ballasts will be wired to the module ![]()
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support@prolineaquatics.com |