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#1
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![]() the material needed:
1 - 3 foot piece of 3 inch black pvc 1 - 3 inch cap 1 - 3 inch to 4 inch toilet flange 3 - 25 foot 1/4 inch airline ( i used a the more rigid type) 4 - 1/4 inch quick connect union 1 - 1/4 inch shut off valve 1 - 1/4 inch quick connect valve material for growing bacteria - (bio balls and ceramic rings) 1 - 4 foot piece of 1.5 inch pvc duct tape pvc glue teflon tape.
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Way too much time and money has gone into this hobby....and yet, I CAN'T STOP |
#2
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![]() Quote:
Then we can roll more tubing say 30% more, and leave it on the smaller diameter 1.5" PVC pipe. Now you don’t have to remove the inner 1.5"PVC pipe, just insert it together with air tubing inside the wider then 3” PVC and drop the bio balls or coral rubble inside. So this is pretty much the same thing except now we have more uniform air tubing distribution with possibility of longer water travel within same hight unit just wider and one does not need a second person to unload the air tubing. Maybe if cost is still low this can be done in even shorter but wider unit that will fit under the aquarium stand. What do you think guys? |
#3
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![]() I think perhaps the only problem with a shorter/wider denitrator is that the water wouldn't have as much contact with the bio balls, which is where the real denitrifying occurs (if I'm understanding it correctly).
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#4
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![]() Ok, how about same hight but wider?
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#5
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![]() I would think that would be perfectly fine.
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#6
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![]() Hey all,
I just stumbled across this and was wondering if anyone has one of these running directly out of and back into a tank (as opposed to a sump)? If so, is a pump required? Thanks in advance. Luke |
#7
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![]() Quote:
any powerhead will work, and the chamber could take upto 30 mins to fill, due to such a small pathway, and the headpressure created by it. |