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#1
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![]() Sorry to correct you but a new chiller is about $800.00 with the taxes.
maybe you might find one used cheaper, and if you do, jump on it fast....
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HAPPY REEF KEEPING !!______________________ |
#2
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![]() I'm having trouble myself trying to decide on a chiller(s) for my systems. My problem is that my house is a one story bungalow with no basement. A chiller is somewhat noisy, and they produce a lot of heat on their own. My house doesn't get that terrible hot as it is log and well insulated but with 6 400W and 2 250W MH bulbs running it definately gets up there on hot days.
Because of where I live it is not possible to somehow have the chiller sitting outside (even if I could somehow figure out a way to build a little shelter for it/them). So you have to consider if you do decide on a chiller it may be enough to keep your tank cool but your room may end up a sauna. |
#3
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![]() Man that's harsh. This is why I went LED... good luck.
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#4
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![]() Is the tank covered with a glass top?
Cheers,
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Mark. |
#5
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![]() I was thinking of getting single ended metal hallides until I heard about the heat issues. I bought 150 watt double ended HQI bulbs and have zero heat issues- lights are 4 inches above the water and the temperature rises maybe half a degree during the day. No fans blowing or anything else.
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#6
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![]() Quote:
if you do decide to put a chiller inside, an option for you is to vent out the heat with a strong in-line fan. These fans can push or pull air very well. So if you were to put the chiller under the tank and put flexible 4" or 6" air duct tubing attached to an in-line fan outside your house, the fan will "suck" the hot "chiller's" air out of your house. If you have a seperate temp controller (ie Ranco single stage thermostat), you can even set the inline fan to turn on the same time as your chiller turns on. another option is like what you said, to build a little shelter for the chiller outside and use flexible tubing to run water to the chiller outside. But put ball valves and union fittings with the plumbing so you can disconnect the chiller in the winter time and bring it inside when you don't need it anymore.
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____________ If people don't die, it wouldn't make living important. And why do we fall? So we can learn to pick ourselves up. |
#7
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![]() Ansoitgoes, what is the distance between your halides and the water? if you keep a fan blowing across the space between them, it usually does the trick. I'm surprised to read that opening the windows doesn't help with the heat especially at this time of the year.
Another thing you want to check is your thermometer. What brand is it? Hows does its readings compare to your residential thermostat? Otherwise I would suggest to learn a way to control the heat now before summer comes along..... otherwise you may get 50g of undercooked seafood chowder in July. ![]()
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____________ If people don't die, it wouldn't make living important. And why do we fall? So we can learn to pick ourselves up. |
#8
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![]() Okay - first, the low side of chillers I'd need are only about 450 (only, hah) - http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/s...t_ID=ch-pc002i
So that answers that problem. I've got my light a good 4" from the water surface. And it's a Double-Ended HQI bulb as well. Other than the fan, nothing was taking down the temp yesterday, until I turned off the MH... As for the thermo - I used 2 different kinds. One from my salinity testing probe and one from a coralife electro thermometer. Both gave readings in the 80's - 80, 81, etc. In the summer my first thought was to just get a small window A/C which I figured would solve the problem, but I know that means I need to keep IT running 24/7 - Surrey in July, yikes!! Maybe we should just move to Antartica? =/ |
#9
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![]() Quote:
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
#10
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![]() Something about your setup sounds weird, I have a 42 cube with a 250 hqi over it, large skimmer and sizable return pump and I am struggling to keep the tank warm.
Is the top of your tank open and gets circulation around it? Do you have a sump? How many powerheads do you have in there? Are there other contributing factors close by that are adding to the ambiant heat in the room, ie; fridge, computer, heat register? Btw, a 1/10HP chiller will be cycling on and off a lot on a 50 gallon tank with heat issues. A 50 gallon really needs a 1/5 HP. Last edited by WWWD; 01-02-2007 at 05:00 PM. |