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#1
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![]() Have BB with rock directly on glass.
Mostly coralline covered except for the corners and areas under the rock. Not to get into the negatives of sand beds (myths or facts) but I personally still believe a maintanied SB looks the best (plus can do that shrimp/goby thing). |
#2
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180 starfire front, LPS, millipora Doesn't matter how much you have been reading until you take the plunge. You don't know as much as you think. |
#3
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![]() I've only had my tank as a BB for about 3 weeks now, and its got a green algae covering. The tank is just going through the usual diatom cycle.
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
#4
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#5
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![]() When deciding to go BB, I looked at tanks on RC that had starboard on them. I suspected detritus would get trapped under the starboard which would defeat the purpose of the BB. So I have my rock on the glass. Have reaquascaped several times since going BB almost 2 years ago and have had no problems with rock on glass.
To reduce algae problems in a new BB tank, cure your LR in something other than the display tank. Make sure you have a heater and lots of water flow in the curing container. Clean the rock of all dead and dying matter from time to time and siphon out the dead stuff every week or so. Once the LR has cured, swish it well in the curing container to remove as much detritus as possible before placing it in your display tank. You're good to go and without all the nitrate and phosphate build up that you left behind in the curing container ![]() |
#6
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Equipment Red Sea Max Livestock Corals Purple Mushrooms, Kenya Trees, Fish/Inverts Brittle Starfish,,Long spine Urchin,Snails,Crabs, Snowflake Eel,Coral Beauty, |
#7
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![]() One thing I did on my 48 when I went bare bottom was to paint the outside bottom. This really helped visually. There is no reflection and makes it look a bit more natural esp before you get bottom growth. The only thing I regret was doing it in black as I had a slight heat problem, but it looked great. Next time, I'm going to get a bit fancier. I paint landscapes as a hobby, so I may try and make the bottom look like rocks, sand and rubble. Another option would be to find some prefab wallpaper or shelf paper already designed to look like a seafloor, but I can't say I remember ever seeing one.
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#8
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![]() I thought a lot about BB tanks and I've got a fair few FW tanks that are like it and, to be honest, I really don't care for the look - I find it just looks... empty - I wanted to like it, but the sand is just so pretty and natural!
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#9
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![]() Mine look like Mikes. I don't really find much detritus that is "suck-a-upable". It's more like sand coming from the rocks. I imagine rock breakdown will create a sandbed in time.
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http://www.canreef.com/ftotm/sept05/index.php |
#10
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![]() I saw seahorse fanatics tank which is bare bottom and it looks great. I imagine it takes a long time though for all the coraline to get to the point where it looks like a bottom rather than all the bare glass. I was thinking about a bare bottom but was also hoping to get a pistol shrimp and goby, I wonder about putting a small barrier of sorts with a 2 inch sand bed for the goby/shrimp and then covering/disguising the sides with live rock rubble... Any thoughts as to whether this would be feasable or just cancel out the idea of the bare bottom.
Doug |