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| View Poll Results: Which T5 combination to use? | |||
| 2 10000K Aquasun (UV) and 2 Super Actinics (UV) |
   
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12 | 26.67% |
| 2 11000K Aquablue Plus (G-mann) and 2 Pure Actinic 03 (G-mann) |
  
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4 | 8.89% |
| 2 11,000K Aquablue Plus (G-mann), 1 Actinic Plus (G-mann) and 1 Pure Actinic 03 (G-mann) |
  
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9 | 20.00% |
| 1 6,000K Midday Sun, 1 11,000K Aquablue Plus, 1 Actinic Plus and 1 Pure Actinic 03 |
  
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6 | 13.33% |
| Something else |
  
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14 | 31.11% |
| Voters: 45. You may not vote on this poll | |||
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#1
12-06-2006, 05:41 AM
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I hear ATI is coming out with an AWESOME bulb to replace their recently retired 10k (Super White).
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This and that. 
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#2
12-16-2006, 04:17 PM
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I don't believe that actinic is mainly for our veiwing pleasure, light is absorbed in water as it penetrates deeper, red is the first to go, then orange, then yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet finish the list off. Actinic light promotes some distinct colours of coraline algae and no light at all or next to no light promotes other coralines. So.... blue light is available to almost all corals and inverts, most of our lights in our aquariums (fluorescents) are tri phosphors meaning they are made up of phosphors that give off light in three specific spectrums, usually red/yellow-green/blue cheaper lights only use two so they'd be missing out either red or blue and blue is the more expensive to create if I remember right so we'd end up with pinkish light. Tri phosphors are designed to give daylight appearance, 5000k to 6500k (daylight deluxe). You can also find cool white and warm white (both of the later are not tri phosphors).
Then again I may just be blowing smoke out of my butt, it's just my opinion. Doug
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