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#1
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![]() I finally figured out the troubles to dialing in my euroreef skimmer. finally!
I was cleaning the foam difuser on the outlet pipe on a weekly basis, and THAT was the cause of the euroreef going out of whack when I couldn't understand it. I ended up cutting the foam difuser in half, and situated it so it's BELOW the output level of the pipe, so the water falls on it, rather than flows through it. here's the problem with putting the foam as instructed, over the output pipe completely: See, as the foam filter gets filled with gunk, the water has to go higher to get out of the foam. This causes the air-foam in the reaction chamber to rise higher as it gets gunked up. The skimmer was running beautifully every time I dialed it in for two days, then all of a sudden I'd get home and the cup would be full after only 4 hours running! Taking the foam off completely makes it real noisy as the water splashes into the sump, so here's my solution: Cut the foam so that it slides onto the output tube, and rests JUST below the outlet of the tube, allowing the water to fall through it, but it doesn't HAVE to flow through it. Quiet output, and no risk to your skimmate cup overflowing because the sponge is gunked up for some unexpected reason. still gotta clean the sponge religiously though ![]()
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Everything I put in my tank is fully dependant on me. |
#2
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![]() I recommend doing the gate valve mod and doing away with the foam altogether. I found the riser tube too hard to adjust.
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#3
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![]() Thanks for the tip
![]() One thing thats always bothered me about the sponge on the skimmer is that we always say don't run a sponge filter or you will get nitrates,yet here we are running them on our skimmers.I think I'll try the gate valve mod when I get time.
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No matter how hard you try, you can't baptise cats. |
#4
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![]() i'm afraid of doing the gatevalve mod
I can get a spears gate valve for a good price, but if I mess up drilling the acrylic, it's $400 down the drain ![]()
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Everything I put in my tank is fully dependant on me. |
#5
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![]() The gate valve mod just replaces the riser tube, you shouldn't have to drill anything.
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Brian ____________________________________________ 220g inwall 48"x36"x30" 110g mangrove refug/sump Poison Dart Frog Vivarium |
#6
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![]() Can you post a pic of the mod? I have a Euroreef also and dislike using the sponge too....if you do that would be great!
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No act of kindness, no matter how small, is ever wasted. Sarah |
#7
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![]() I'm interested in this too. I'll be setting up two EuroReef RS 250's soon.
If the gate valve mod is the way to go, now's the time to do it. What parts are needed? Where can one get them? Is it simple to do? Thanx much,
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Mark. |
#8
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![]() actually I did some research, and I got the gatevalve mod mixed up with the recirculation mod.
looks pretty simple. you find a gate valve the same size as the riser tubing (or close), and attach it where the riser tube would have gone. then attach a T, then feed the output back into the sump for a quiet output. Looks WAY easier to dial in than raising and lowering that riser tube. i found an image of it on thereeftank.com ![]() I think this is a recirculating model, too
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Everything I put in my tank is fully dependant on me. |
#9
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![]() Thanks for the picture Sean
the Gate valve mod kit prepared by Euro-Reef is available from any Euro-Reef Dealer ,All the pieces you need is in the package just put it together ,It does make life easier ![]()
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support@prolineaquatics.com |
#10
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![]() I did the gate valve mod but used a ball valve instead. They're much cheaper, but more importantly, easier to find. I know a ball valve isn't appropriate for the task of fine tuning but once you dial it in you never change it & it works great. No drilling, no gluing necessary for this mod and very cheap if you just buy a bit of pipe & a ball valve.
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