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#2
08-09-2006, 06:58 PM
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I know I'm gonna get jumped on for this... but I don't care...
Try a Cleaner Wrasse... your system is big enough to sustain one long term and they'll eradicate any ich in your system. No treatment necessary, just drop him in and watch him go at it... Allright fellow reefers - FLAME away!!! 
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135G Mixed Reef. Bullet 2, 25 gal refugium, 2 X250W MH + 4X 96W PC\'s, DIY Calcium Reactor, Coralife 1/6 HP Chiller, Phosban, Tunze, 2 closed loops & SQWD\'s, Seios, Coralife 4 stage RO/DI & a bunch of other expensive gadgets... I may never retire, but I'm gonnahavahelluvanaquarium! 
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#3
08-09-2006, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
 A Cleaner Wraisse may help relieve some of the parasites on the tang but will never remove the ick from the main system, you will always be fighting it. Also, Cleaner Wraises are said to have a very tough time in most systems and really should not be added. A Cleaner Srimp would be better IMHO. Is this tang in the Main System or did you Quarantine? If you put him in the main system, you have a LONG road ahead. The number ONE rule in Salt Water fish keeping should be NEVER ADD A NEW FISH TO THE MAIN DISPLAY WITHOUT QUARANTINE. I have a friend that did this and refuses to let the tank fallow for 6 weeks. He is constantly battling the resurgance of Ick and is about ready to quit the hobby. (I am going to go over and pull all of his fish from the system and treat them for him next weekend) If the Tang is in Quarantine, he is easy to cure. Cuppramine, lower the salinity and increase the temperature to 84 to speed up the parasite process. He will show major improvement within a week. Give me more details of the situation and Ill help you remove the ick for good.
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#4
08-09-2006, 07:42 PM
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i just want to cure him, no i didnt quarrintine him
 due to my situation it would be hard to maintain a qtank. If someone would help me, i'd love to put him in Qtank and start treating him. Or, maybe i should take him back to golds seeing as i just bought him and he has ick.
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#5
08-09-2006, 07:46 PM
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The chance of getting a fish with nothing wrong are pretty slim.Like andrewsk said you will have to pull all the fish out for six weeks.It is the only way to get rid of it.
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#6
08-09-2006, 07:59 PM
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Ich is always in your system... there should be no need to QT all of this fish in your system. Fish that are stressed and not eating are prone to parasites.
If you CAN move any infected fish into a quarantine and treat with copper that would be great... Andrew - that was the most polite flame I have ever received - thank you.  I agree that Cleaner Wrasses aren't for MOST systems, but I noted that this system seemed large enough that it may work well... one thing I DO know about Cleaner Wrasses is that they'll clear ich off anything in no time and the fish love it! I have 3 cleaner shrimp as well... but they didn't seem to do anything about the ich...
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135G Mixed Reef. Bullet 2, 25 gal refugium, 2 X250W MH + 4X 96W PC\'s, DIY Calcium Reactor, Coralife 1/6 HP Chiller, Phosban, Tunze, 2 closed loops & SQWD\'s, Seios, Coralife 4 stage RO/DI & a bunch of other expensive gadgets... I may never retire, but I'm gonnahavahelluvanaquarium!
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#7
08-09-2006, 08:20 PM
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Here is what you need to do, and yes, it's a lot of work.
You have introduced ick into the tank already by adding the infected fish. Removing the fish and returning it will not help as the ick is almost certainly in the tank. Ick works in 3 stages. When the parasites drop from the fish, they lay dormant in the tank until they hatch, releasing free swimming parasites. These parasites find a fish, and burrow into the skin, forming what we call ick. The cycle then continues. The only way to kill the ick, is in the free swimming stage. The absolute best way is copper but you need to be very careful with it's dose strength, espcially around angels. Also, you cannot dose this in a reef tank, or you will kill your corals and any nitrifying bacteria. Most other reef safe products either do not kill the ick, or are not reef safe at all. What you need to do is remove ALL of you fish. Snails and Shrimp etc are ok to remain in the main tank. Your tank must then remain FALLOW for 6 weeks. (No fish in it at all) The parasite will die off due to not having an intermediate host to complete it's cycle. All of your fish should now be in a quarantine tank. (The bigger the better) with nothing but some PVC for hiding. Dose the Copper at the recomended amount. (Copper only needs to be dosed once/not daily). Raise the temp to 84. (This speeds up the parasite cycle.) Do not add live rock or a biological filter as the copper will kill it. Keep a couple of strong powerheads in the tank to keep the flow up. Perhaps you should list the fish you have so we can verify that they will be safe from the Copper as it can be deady to some species. You will then need to do the following daily. -Add top off RO water to the quarantine tank. -Monitor Ammonia and Nitrites in the quarantine tank. -Change a certain volume of water based on fish volume/ammonia levels (I change 25-30% daily.) Remember to add the appropriate amount of copper the the change water. (Not the RO top off water otherwise you will be raising the copper level as it does not evaporate) Leave the copper in the quarantine tank for 7 to 10 days depending on the look of the fish. After this the ick should be gone. Do a 50% water change and add carbon and some filtration device to remove the remaining Copper. I add Purigen as well to help control the Ammonia and Nitrite until the filter can get the bacteria going. Perhaps even add one of those Bacteria jump starts to get the tank cycling faster. Thats it. Easy! Now don't you wish you had quarantined Honestly, this is the only way to remove ick from your tank. Good Luck.
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