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#1
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![]() ![]() Okay, so the idea here is that you run a stand pipe that nears the water level of the main display. The other drain just gets a grill. With the valve installed, you throttle the drain down until the water level rises just short of the standpipe. Bam, instant silent overflow with the added benefit of zero bubbles in the sump.
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This and that. |
#2
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![]() Do you have the grill line and the standpipe line tied together after the valve before it goes into the sump ? Do you recomend a length or a specific distance ? Could you add a T below the top of the standpipe to increase flow ? Thanks.
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#3
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![]() Quote:
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This and that. |
#4
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![]() Albert, I'll drop off some graph paper so the next time you can follow the lines with your crayon
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#5
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![]() i like how the water is aqua couour so we can tell where the water goes.
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but what the heck do i know |
#6
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![]() Stinky, do yourself a favour, don't bother with a ball valve or "gate valve" (as sold at western pump - actually a knife valve) to throttle the overflow down, www.mcmastercarr.com sells proper gate valves (threaded adjuster). Otherwise you'll be fiddling forever trying to get it right.
Albert - stop taking credit, you didn't come up with this design. Search RC for silent overflow, it's well detailed there. |
#7
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![]() McMaster Carr actually no longer ships to Canada.
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32"x32"x20" Cube-ish tank |
#8
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![]() Quote:
Yeah, hi, I'm not taking credit. Additionally, I've had at least ten people use this design perfectly well with a good quality ball-valve. I think the most time spent on the adjustment was somewhere in the neighborhood of five minutes. But hey, for anyone who wants to spend more than $25 on a valve, it's their money. And hey Andy, if you would like, please step up and take the throne to the Kingdom of Negative-attitudes. It's all yours.
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This and that. Last edited by albert_dao; 08-06-2006 at 12:09 AM. |
#9
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![]() Quote:
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http://www.canreef.com/ftotm/sept05/index.php |