Movin' on up

[Glennrf38]

That would mean me.........

Originally Posted by albert_dao

Hey Rob, come by if you get a chance and I can go through all the plumbing with examples for you. Really easy stuff.

Anyway, I'll answer what I can here, sans live examples:



They are, but if you get the chance, upgrade to a proper skimmer. A properly sized Euroreef or ASM skimmer will knock the socks off of any two, even three hang-ons put together.



I'm going to strongly suggest that you skip drilling the bottom of the tank and instead install a side overflow. This is pretty easy, just get the glas cut for a box, drill 1.5" holes in the back (that's right, holes, you'll want two - more in a bit on this), glue in the box and install bulkheads. Drilling the upper side of a tank doesn't comprimise the structural integrity of the tank, the same is not true for the bottom. Ideally, the overflow box should be 12" long, 4-5" wide and 8" tall for best results.

Now for the two holes. Using two holes will allow for a silent overflow, check Keith's (andrewsk) thread for more info on this: http://216.187.96.54/vbulletin/showt...t=25427&page=8

The basic idea there being that one hole (the one with the standpipe) acts as an emergency drain in the advent that the main drain (the one with the grill) clogs. The main drain has a valve at the exit that you throttle down just until the water level is a bit shy of the emergency standpipe. This keeps air out of the main drain while removing the drop that the water takes in a normal overflow. No air in the sump + no waterfall effect in the overflow = Silent system.

For pumps, I'm going to strongly recommend that you have your sump customized with a 2" hole at the return end. This gives you access to external pumps. External pumps > internal, no questions. No heat transfer, lower head-loss rates, easier to access and maintain (use true union valves when you plumb), lower noise issues, there really is no reason to use an internal unless you're limited by space or budget (the cost difference is about 25% for comparable pumps, with the externals being on the higher end).

You'll probably want to run anywhere from 500 to 900 gph, pending on how much flow you're going to get out of powerheads/closed loop within the main tank itself. Lower flow from main tank to sump being better (allows for a longer dwell time, a plus for skimmer performance). Since I'm at it, I'll also recommend a pump for you too: Sequence Reeflo Snapper. 500-2400 gph. Super silent, ultra reliable, plumbs with 1.5' tubing (AWESOME) and has a THREE YEAR WARRANTEE!!! The price is right too ($230-$250 CAD MSRP). The only down-side being that they arent pressure rated, but that's hardly an issue if the sump is directly below the tank on the same floor.




That's proper thinking when it comes to this hobby. All the newbies take note here :P




It could be worse, you could be asking zero questions.

Hope that's of help. And like I said, drop by when you have the chance and I'll go over the nitty gritties of plumbing with you step-by step.

[RobbAdams]

So, I have decided to go with a Reflo "Snapper", as suggested by Albert.

I have a question regarding the design of my sump. There is a space beneath my stand that is about 18 inches across 23 inches tall, and about 26 inches deep I am panning to have a sump built for this space. things to consider:

1) Skimmer does not fit under the stand, but there is space behind the tank, where I could cut out a space so the skimmer will fit.

2) the pump I am going with is an external pump, so it also would require to be at the back of the tank

3) skimmer creates exessive amount of microbubbles so a baffle system is required.

4) I was hoping for a Refugeum area.

Any suggestions for a sump design that will fit within this footprint?

Robb

[albert_dao]

Originally Posted by RobbAdams

So, I have decided to go with a Reflo "Snapper", as suggested by Albert.

I have a question regarding the design of my sump. There is a space beneath my stand that is about 18 inches across 23 inches tall, and about 26 inches deep I am panning to have a sump built for this space. things to consider:

1) Skimmer does not fit under the stand, but there is space behind the tank, where I could cut out a space so the skimmer will fit.

2) the pump I am going with is an external pump, so it also would require to be at the back of the tank

3) skimmer creates exessive amount of microbubbles so a baffle system is required.

4) I was hoping for a Refugeum area.

Any suggestions for a sump design that will fit within this footprint?

Robb

Those are some quirky dimensions...

[RobbAdams]

I know, weird dimensions indeed, this is why I think a custom sump will be required.

[RobbAdams]

OK I have drawn up a plan for a custom built sump. Here is what I am thinking:



Any one have any input as I am really just making this up as I go. Basically green is in from the cpr overflow 1 1/2 inch bulkead in overflow, so I thing it would be same for the piping?

Yellow is from the reeflo, whish is also 1 1/2 inch piping. I will be using some sort of a Valve to scale back the flow if required from the reeflo.

[muck]

That last chamber is where you will notice the water level drop due to all the evap from your tank. The smaller the chamber the quicker your pump will start sucking air and frothing your tank up with bubbles. Unlesss you have an Auto-Top-Off unit you will be having major bubble issues in no time.

Another thing to keep in mind is you need to make sure you allow for power outages and the amount of water in your pipes and overflow backfilling into your sump. Your do not want the sump to overflow and you do not want any water getting into the dry area. Make sure those baffles are low enough and the rest is high enough where there is a slim to nil chance the water will not get to places its not supposed to be.

What size is the chamber for the "Fuge" spec'd at?

[RobbAdams]

the fuge is is about 6x17 inches. should I just give up on the refugium idea and use this space for the holding area for the return water?

Robb