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	Given sufficient thrust pigs will fly just fine. 90 Gallon LPS tank - Challice, Acans, Favia, Diplo and Zoos 125 Gallon SPS Coming Soon!  | 
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			#2  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
		
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			 A float valve from a humidifier to your R/O unit should suffice.  As a failsafe, you can use a float switch hooked up to a solenoid that cuts off the water supply to your R/O unit if the water level in your sump gets too high in conjunction with the float valve.  If you are really worried, you can set up a couple of switches in case 1 should fail (if everything fails, you're just unlucky!  
		
	
		
		
		
		
			
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	32"x32"x20" Cube-ish tank  | 
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			 Sorry Ruth, apparantly they want to continue this discussion here. 
		
	
		
		
		
		
			
		
		
		
		
		
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 So with just a float valve, how do you shut off waste water production from your RODI if you dont use any other valves, just a single abs float? I have had the pleasure of flooding multiple ways, with the exception of my current setup. I have had float valves fail in multiple ways (stick open, and just plain leak), I have had the hyraulic plumbed into the RODI fail, and I have had float switches fail even with 4, yes 4 redundant float switches, set with 2 series and 2 in parallel for "ultimate" protection. And before I used a time, I have forgot to unplug my RODI when filling a reservoire, and filled the reservoire then my floor. So for simplicity sake, when wanting to control an RODI directly to your sump, I have found a sprinkler solenoid and a timer set to replace approximate evaporation rate to be the "best". If there is a better, safer way to setup a completely automated system I would love to learn it. After having multiple float switches burn out and fail in the on position, I just dont trust them anymore. Now if my timer starts to fail im screwed, I dont know what else to do! Last edited by TheReefGeek; 04-25-2006 at 01:10 AM.  | 
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			 Hey you guys I can end this really quickly because........it's my thread 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
	
		
		
	
	
	I don't need a chamber for the protein skimmer as I will be running a BK 500ext. on it. I want to have a refugium, a place to house my return pump, heaters, zeovit reactor (if I decide to use zeo on this tank) and misc. other pieces of equipment that I might aquire.  | 
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			 So do you bring in jugs of distilled then for water change a top off water? 
		
	
		
		
		
		
			
		
		
		
		
	
		
		
	
	
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			 Rory, I currently have a 230g, 190g, 44g, 24g and 12g tanks and I buy and pack all RODI water from a water store in town that I have worked with quite a bit and trust the way they treat their water.  I do a minimum of 15% bi weekly water changes on all of them.  It's a lot of work I guess but honestly I don't mind.  Packing all that water has definately helped out my muscle tone! 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
	
		
		
	
	
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			#7  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
		
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			 Ruth, 
		
	
		
		
		
		
			
		
		
		
		
	
		
		
	
	
	Jack and I built a sump a couple of years ago. It was quite easy. I simply had an acrylic shop cut the pieces to the sizes I wanted and used Weldon 40 to glue it all together. I used silicone to add baffles. It might be a challenge to find a shop around you but I'm sure shipping of pieces of Acrylic would be cheaper than a completed tank. If your interested I could pick up and mail pieces to you? Or you could talk to Wendell J  | 
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			#8  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
		
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			 Hi Jason, 
		
	
		
		
		
		
			How did you like using the Weld-On 40? Its a 2 part right? 
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	32"x32"x20" Cube-ish tank  | 
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			#9  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
		
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 I stand in awe, and will NEVER AGAIN whine about having to carry my water up and down one flight of stairs.  | 
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			#10  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
		
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			 I also evaporate 7-10g a day so yeah I pack a lot of water.  The really funny part of it is that I drink my well water.  The only thing that gets the good stuff is my fish tanks. 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
	
		
		
	
	
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