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#1
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![]() Yep, it absolutely is, never said anything different. But I find that you then need two auto-top offs. One to control your RODI to a reservoire, then one from your reservoire to your sump/display.
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#2
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![]() Anyhow, shouldn't be filling this thread with an auto-top off discussion.
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#3
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![]() Quote:
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Given sufficient thrust pigs will fly just fine. 90 Gallon LPS tank - Challice, Acans, Favia, Diplo and Zoos 125 Gallon SPS Coming Soon! |
#4
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![]() A float valve from a humidifier to your R/O unit should suffice. As a failsafe, you can use a float switch hooked up to a solenoid that cuts off the water supply to your R/O unit if the water level in your sump gets too high in conjunction with the float valve. If you are really worried, you can set up a couple of switches in case 1 should fail (if everything fails, you're just unlucky!
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32"x32"x20" Cube-ish tank |
#5
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![]() Sorry Ruth, apparantly they want to continue this discussion here.
Quote:
So with just a float valve, how do you shut off waste water production from your RODI if you dont use any other valves, just a single abs float? I have had the pleasure of flooding multiple ways, with the exception of my current setup. I have had float valves fail in multiple ways (stick open, and just plain leak), I have had the hyraulic plumbed into the RODI fail, and I have had float switches fail even with 4, yes 4 redundant float switches, set with 2 series and 2 in parallel for "ultimate" protection. And before I used a time, I have forgot to unplug my RODI when filling a reservoire, and filled the reservoire then my floor. So for simplicity sake, when wanting to control an RODI directly to your sump, I have found a sprinkler solenoid and a timer set to replace approximate evaporation rate to be the "best". If there is a better, safer way to setup a completely automated system I would love to learn it. After having multiple float switches burn out and fail in the on position, I just dont trust them anymore. Now if my timer starts to fail im screwed, I dont know what else to do! Last edited by TheReefGeek; 04-25-2006 at 12:10 AM. |
#6
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![]() Hey you guys I can end this really quickly because........it's my thread
![]() I don't need a chamber for the protein skimmer as I will be running a BK 500ext. on it. I want to have a refugium, a place to house my return pump, heaters, zeovit reactor (if I decide to use zeo on this tank) and misc. other pieces of equipment that I might aquire. |
#7
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![]() So do you bring in jugs of distilled then for water change a top off water?
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#8
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![]() Rory, I currently have a 230g, 190g, 44g, 24g and 12g tanks and I buy and pack all RODI water from a water store in town that I have worked with quite a bit and trust the way they treat their water. I do a minimum of 15% bi weekly water changes on all of them. It's a lot of work I guess but honestly I don't mind. Packing all that water has definately helped out my muscle tone!
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#9
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![]() Ruth,
Jack and I built a sump a couple of years ago. It was quite easy. I simply had an acrylic shop cut the pieces to the sizes I wanted and used Weldon 40 to glue it all together. I used silicone to add baffles. It might be a challenge to find a shop around you but I'm sure shipping of pieces of Acrylic would be cheaper than a completed tank. If your interested I could pick up and mail pieces to you? Or you could talk to Wendell J |
#10
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![]() Quote:
I stand in awe, and will NEVER AGAIN whine about having to carry my water up and down one flight of stairs. |