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#1
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![]() Quote:
Im talking about an auto top off with an RODI unit, which a single abs float valve is not going to do. If you think it will, please explain in DETAIL. You would need to install a hydraulic valve that triggers when there is pressure build-up in the line, and the valve closes the waste water production for you. Otherwise, when your abs float valve closes, your RODI unit just keeps on pumping out waste water. Float valves can fail open, if anything clogs them from closing properly, then water just keep on flowing! |
#2
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![]() I don't care how brilliant the design I would never attach a RO/DI unit directly to a top off. I have a 100GPD RO/DI and would not want a failure in that to flood my system.
Having a holding tank that supplies your AUTO-TOP-OFF is still and AUTO-TOP-OFF. J |
#3
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![]() Yep, it absolutely is, never said anything different. But I find that you then need two auto-top offs. One to control your RODI to a reservoire, then one from your reservoire to your sump/display.
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#4
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![]() Anyhow, shouldn't be filling this thread with an auto-top off discussion.
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#5
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![]() Quote:
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Given sufficient thrust pigs will fly just fine. 90 Gallon LPS tank - Challice, Acans, Favia, Diplo and Zoos 125 Gallon SPS Coming Soon! |
#6
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![]() A float valve from a humidifier to your R/O unit should suffice. As a failsafe, you can use a float switch hooked up to a solenoid that cuts off the water supply to your R/O unit if the water level in your sump gets too high in conjunction with the float valve. If you are really worried, you can set up a couple of switches in case 1 should fail (if everything fails, you're just unlucky!
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32"x32"x20" Cube-ish tank |
#7
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![]() Sorry Ruth, apparantly they want to continue this discussion here.
Quote:
So with just a float valve, how do you shut off waste water production from your RODI if you dont use any other valves, just a single abs float? I have had the pleasure of flooding multiple ways, with the exception of my current setup. I have had float valves fail in multiple ways (stick open, and just plain leak), I have had the hyraulic plumbed into the RODI fail, and I have had float switches fail even with 4, yes 4 redundant float switches, set with 2 series and 2 in parallel for "ultimate" protection. And before I used a time, I have forgot to unplug my RODI when filling a reservoire, and filled the reservoire then my floor. So for simplicity sake, when wanting to control an RODI directly to your sump, I have found a sprinkler solenoid and a timer set to replace approximate evaporation rate to be the "best". If there is a better, safer way to setup a completely automated system I would love to learn it. After having multiple float switches burn out and fail in the on position, I just dont trust them anymore. Now if my timer starts to fail im screwed, I dont know what else to do! Last edited by TheReefGeek; 04-25-2006 at 12:10 AM. |
#8
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![]() Hey you guys I can end this really quickly because........it's my thread
![]() I don't need a chamber for the protein skimmer as I will be running a BK 500ext. on it. I want to have a refugium, a place to house my return pump, heaters, zeovit reactor (if I decide to use zeo on this tank) and misc. other pieces of equipment that I might aquire. |
#9
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![]() So do you bring in jugs of distilled then for water change a top off water?
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#10
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![]() Quote:
http://www.hagen.com/canada/english/...03018420010101 If I'm not mistaken, an RO/DI unit can be hooked up to it. Hard to see in the picture but the tubing connects to the small adapter piece seen in the package on the left hand side. Just above that tapered piece. When I get my crap together and move and do some major upgrading at the same time, I plan on running an RO/DI unit straight to float valves (multiple tanks) exactly like this one. Sorry Ruth. Had to get that in. Cheers ![]()
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Mark. |