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#11
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![]() I've also noticed that my Coralife 10000K pc bulb looks more yellow than my other one by Hamilton - both very close to the same age - and the Hamilton was cheaper!
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Steve |
#12
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![]() i've only had my coralife 10,000K 150watt for a month now, and seems to be giving a strong yellow tint. could this be the reason for my recent boom in green algae growth?
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#13
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![]() Quote:
![]() With my older 240 Gal setup that had about 150 Lbs of LR, softies and two horn sharks (huge bio load) I had NEVER experience ANY hair aglae blooms over the few years it was running, just the odd 'tuff" that I brushed off with a tooth brush. I was running 2 175W Hamilton 10000K lights at the time. NOW with just about no bio load and CORALIFE bulbs Im getting HUGE amounts of hair algae. BTW the rest of the system design is the same as my last setup. WHATS UP WITH THESE BULBS ![]() Soory to go off the handle, but I am a little ****ed that in order for these lights to perform relative to the high price they command, you need to spend an additional $150-200 to get bulbs that at least put out what they are intended to.
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#14
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![]() yeah this really makes me wonder...
I have had my tank up and running for just over a year now, and have NEVER had any hair algae or any nusance algae until now. It grows quickly, I use my magfloat on the front of the tank, and I'll NEED to do it again in 3-4 days. I am more than happy with the setup, and design, but it seems odd that the bulbs provided dont seem to be of the same quality. Looks like I might swap my 10000k bulb. Any suggestions on which is best? I'm thinking either another 10000k, or 14000k. |
#15
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![]() it has been suggested that there is a breakin period for full brightness and spec'd spectrum, however i haven't had to replace my coralife 150w 10k pendent DE style yet, still has a half a year left yet. no problems at all though.
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If it was easy it wouldn't be any fun. |
#16
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![]() Quote:
I think I might change mine to Geisemann 13K - I have heard nothing but good comments on these bulbs.
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Visit my Gallery http://www.canreef.com/photopost/sho...user=2209&sl=b 150 Gal Deep Dimension Cube, with Model 2 sump/filter, CO2 reactor, milwakee pH controller, auto-top off, 2 radion LED lighting, Vortech MP40 cor internal circulation. |
#17
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![]() Well, I still am no closer to having a MH that works on my AquaLight pro, I have talked to the Coralife rep in BC, he did fack all, I phoned Coralife direct, and they say that the problem is the "ignitor" and have shipped me the parts, but I dont have them yet....anyone know where an ignitor goes? ie. in the ballast or in the fixture?
I want to drive over this light and burn it. |
#18
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#19
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![]() Now Im really p*ssed... I am noticing some dark drown hair algae developing on my oolite substrate - you know the stuff where the sand starts to turn to a greyish hue then little dark hairs start to appear. I have NEVER had an algae problem like this except for when I was using 100% tap water with cheap salt and VERY POOR lighting in a smaller system many years ago. Also there looks like the beginnings of a small patch of red slime - kind of looks like red wine stain the size of a loonie. If I turn off my actinics, the light looks realy yellow - looking at the AWFULL spectrum irratates me - I actually looks like 2 halogens.
![]() I dont get it.. My nitrates are inmeasurable, no amonia 100% RO/DI with 7-20PPM TDS reading on output water. As far as live stock, all I have are some leather Toadstools that have been closed for about a week, clean up crew, sea hair and a large Arrow crab - NO FISH. I dont know what to do. Part of me wants to get new bulbs, but if its the ballasts then I might as well replace the entire fixture -which I dont want to do - too much $$$ ![]()
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Visit my Gallery http://www.canreef.com/photopost/sho...user=2209&sl=b 150 Gal Deep Dimension Cube, with Model 2 sump/filter, CO2 reactor, milwakee pH controller, auto-top off, 2 radion LED lighting, Vortech MP40 cor internal circulation. |