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#1
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![]() Manually, but I hope to someday afford a controller to handle it for me.
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I retired and got a fixed income but it's broke. Ed _______________________________________ 50 gallon FOWLR, 10 gallon sump. 130 gallon reef, 20 gallon sump, 10 gallon refugium. 10 gallon quarantine. 60 gallon winter tank for pond fish. 300 gallon pond with waterfall. |
#2
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![]() And how would you set the controller up? To controll the Ph of effluent or of the display tank?
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#3
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![]() I do method one...one day it'll be automated...I hope.
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32"x32"x20" Cube-ish tank |
#4
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![]() Manual control for me.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#5
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![]() Quote:
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#6
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![]() Manual.
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#7
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![]() I use a controller to turn my CO2 solenoid on and off. The cheapest I found for continuous monitoring cost $110. For $10 more, I got the controller.
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#8
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![]() I have controllers for both of my calcium reactors and still do it manually and just use the controller as a monitor. Jeezz one of these days I am going to have to hook them up. I will monitor the effluent - my gro-tech calcium reactor has a port to insert the PH probe right into the body of the reactor to get a really accurate reading too!
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#9
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![]() I used to control it manually, but I cant stand sitting there and counting bubbles all the time. So now I use a pH probe in the effluent and set the controller to 6.5 to 6.7, then adjust effluent flow up or down as necessary. Only took a couple days to tune this way.
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