Antoher lighting question... Sigh...

[StirCrazy]

Originally Posted by fortheloveofcrabs

I've never seen a 'for sure' answer to this, so I going to ask it again. Is there such a think as 'too much light'? For example, I have a 55 gal tank, and I am upgrading to MH... Now originally, I was going to go with 2 250 watts, but 400 watts are pretty much the same price. Now, heat and cost aside, is there any reason NOT to go with 2 1000 watt bulbs?

I remember when I entered this hobby, 8 - 10 watts per gallon was 'where you wanted to be'. Is this still true, or is a more the better game?

After all, as a fellow reefer said, 'In nature, these corals are under one big @$$ bulb'.

Thanks.

Ok I posted this yesterday but some how it got nuked and I didn't have time to re do it.
anyways the "watts per gal" is a reference that means nothing as if you have a 40 gal tank that is say 16" tall and 24 X 24 with a 250 watt light over it it will have 6.25 watt/gal. now if you take another 40 gal tank say 32" tall and 16X18 wide and long and put that same 250 watt bulb over it you still have 6.25 watt/gal, but do you think the amount of light reaching the bottom of the tank is the same?

as a basic guideline you can use 175 watt or 150HQI on tanks up to 18" tall, from 18" to 24" tall you can use 250 watt MH, for 24" and over you are looking at 250HQI or 400 watt MH.

Now this isn't to say you can use a 175 on a 24" deep tank, or a 400 on a 12" deep tank. I have a 400 set up on a temporary tank in the garage and it is only 16" deep I believe and the corals are lovin it.

now I personally run a 250 SE bulbs on a HQI ballast as it seams to pump out a better spread and a little more intensity than when you run a DE bulb, but the main reason for using a 250 watt SE bulb is the number of choices for bulbs.

Steve

[TheReefGeek]

I would go with 400w because then you dont have to upgrade when you get a bigger tank in the future.

[fortheloveofcrabs]

Well, now, people talk about the depth of a tank being the deciding factor, but why is it? For examply, "MOST" high light corals can be kept high up in the tank (SPS/clams) on the rock work. So what doe it matter deeper down if you only (say) have lower light corals there. Can too much light hurt a coral (aside from bleaching). I have a bubble coral that wasn't doing well at all under a 175 MH, under 400 watts of PC lighting it is doing much better. Has anyone heard of too much light bothering corals (not bleaching)? As well, aren't you limiting yourself by getting 250 SE bulbs a bit? I mean, when you read about many SPS corals they say a min of 250, recommened 400. That said some SPS junkies (Harvey) keeps them under 250's.

[Bill]

250W 10K and actinics over a 55g for sps and clams.

[StirCrazy]

Originally Posted by fortheloveofcrabs

Can too much light hurt a coral (aside from bleaching). I have a bubble coral that wasn't doing well at all under a 175 MH, under 400 watts of PC lighting it is doing much better. Has anyone heard of too much light bothering corals (not bleaching)? As well, aren't you limiting yourself by getting 250 SE bulbs a bit? I mean, when you read about many SPS corals they say a min of 250, recommened 400. That said some SPS junkies (Harvey) keeps them under 250's.

Ok two things, running a 250 watt SE on a HQI ballast is not limiting your self, I have tested 3 or 4, 400 watt lighting set ups on the island and a couple on the main land with a PAR meter and all except 1 was less than three 250 watt SE on HQI ballasts set ups, this is why the 250watt HQI is grouped with the 400 watt for depth of tank so by going with either the 250 HQI or the 400 you are good for any upgrades down the road.

as for two much light.. hmm see I have had the opposite happen, when I upgraded from the 175 to the 250HQI My mushroom and polyp growth exploded, as well so did my Brain, Anemone, Torch, bubble and fox. I think people forget that you do find these corals living among SPS in some areas and the limiting factor is how well you acclimate them to the new light.

as for why use the depth, personally I think there is nothing more weird looking then having corals all in the top 1/3 of your tank, then nothing in the middle and a bunch of softies on the bottom, I want the ability to keep the top 1/3 of my tank free for just water and fish so all my corals will be in the bottom 2/3rds of the tank and I will have SPS on the bottom as well as the top of the rocks and in the middle so you need to have a good lighting base at the bottom also. I think this gives a more natural reef look as your schooling fish can actually swim above the reed (like you see in the shows on reefs) instead of around it because there is no room above.

but that is just my opinion and rational.

Steve