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#1
03-14-2006, 06:30 PM
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manufacturers are finally getting the hang of high par with more blue colouration out of halides, but you're paying top dollar for a bulb like that. if you want best output for best bang, probe start ballast + XM 10k halides with some NO fluorescent actinic supplimentation is a nice blend and can be had for very cheap.
personally I prefer high color rendering index over "the blue look"..nothing beats a great 10k bulb with a 90+ CRI. it doesn't seem anyone gives a damn about CRI but to me, it makes a HUGE difference in the overall appearance of the tank. the downside is not a lot of mfgs advertise the CRI of their products. the only company I can think of that does, is ushio.
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a tout le monde, a tous les amis. je vous aime, je dois partir. 
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#2
03-14-2006, 06:40 PM
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I am using Actinics along with a 14k bulb. The difference when they are on and off is not that big, but the atinics just help some of the colours "pop" with the hallides on.
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- Greg 90G : Light - Tek 6xT5 | Skim - EuroReef RS135 | Flow - 2xVortech MP40W | Control - Reef Keeper 2
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#3
03-14-2006, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Iwaski has those PAR bulbs with a CRI of 96 or something crazy. From the looks of it (user reviews and whatnot), these things perform just nearly as 400 watt SE bulbs of X brands.
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This and that.
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#4
03-14-2006, 11:24 PM
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I run t5 and mh, MH are 14k I find that with the atinic t5s on the colors are nicer and more appealing, also i have my lights come on in series, and go off in series, thus the t5 atinics come on then 20k whits t5s come on the mhs last, gives a more natural dusk to dawn effect IMO.
Lighting is what evre suits ones needs and appeal
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#5
03-14-2006, 11:33 PM
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I use a 250W Hamilton 14K DE bulb without actinics and I am very happy so far with the looks of the coral.
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Hybrid Mode
