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#11
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![]() I had a big problem in my 10 gallon once upon a time. Was using the DT's as well. I stopped and it went away, with some work. sucking it out with a small hose when doing water changes and shutting off water flow and using a stiff bottle bruch to wrap it up. (kind of like you would wrap spagetti around a fork). I have been told that it is full of PO4 - fertilizer for hiar algeas and cyano. I guess they put it in to prolong the life of the phyto.
Could be your issue. How old is the stuff? Mike
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This all started with a ten gallon and two clowns. |
#12
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![]() Hi Mark,
Yes, I would say that is a form of cyno. I have been battling it on and off for the past 7 years here in Victoria. I am one of those that beleives it is in our water table, and RO/DI does help, but does not eliminate it. I would strongly recomend not using anti biotics in your tank, yes they say it is safe, but from my experience, it does have a chance of killing all livestock, and it has in my case. Chemi-clean is my choice now, it has never harmed any of my corals/fich/invertebrates, easy to use, PUT AN AIRSTONE IN WATER, remove carbon, its all good, and the cyno is dead within 48 hours. Make sure to give a substantial water change of about 30% after day 3. I know that some people have had issues with it, and I can see why, it is a heavy duty oxidizer from what I understand. I have kept aquariums for over 30 years, and cyno has been my PITA ever since the city increased our resevoir size. About the only thing I have not tried is a UV sterilizer. FWIW, it only shows its ugly head in mid/late winter, further strengthening my belief its in our water table. Whichever method you choose, good luck, and may the force be with you! ![]() Phil
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May the fleas of a thousand camels infest the crotch of the person who screws up your day and may their arms be too short to scratch. AMEN. |
#13
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![]() Well...tested the water.
Time of tests between 7:45 and 8:45 PM. Temp. 77.0 F SG 1.025 pH 8.28 Alk 8.4 dKH NH3 undetectable NO2 undetectable NO3 < 5 mg/l PO4 undetectable Ca 245 mg/l Mg 1035 mg/l All checks out good. Huh. Ruth: Doesn't look like phosphates, but thanx. Myanth: The DT's I'm using now is good 'till March 15/06. I just finished a bottle at the end of January that had expired Jan. 1st, so hmmm....possibly. It didn't smell bad, however, so I thought I'd stretch it out. Maybe not such a good idea. Good point. Swags: Interesting post. Unfortunately RO/DI isn't an option now, but will be definitely looking at that when it is an option. (I rent now and can't really mess with plumbing that isn't mine). I might just get a DOM test kit and test the tapwater. I think I'll just hold off on making any rash decisions for a few days and monitor the situation. It looks to me like a new tank syndrome break out, or...like Swags suggests....the tapwater. I should at least do a water change in the meantime, I'm thinkin'. I'll prepare some changewater tomorrow and do a 10% change on Wed. But now it's bedtime and up and at 'em at 4:20 again tomorrow. Yahoo. ![]() Thanx much, folks, and cheers, ![]()
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Mark. Last edited by Johnny Reefer; 02-21-2006 at 12:07 PM. |
#14
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![]() Quote:
I've also read some interesting papers suggesting PO4 building up in the rocks, so you may want to try Ruth's suggestion of soaking one in a bucket, swishing it around alot, then testing the water. I've seen cyano show up quite late in upgrades aswell. Whether it has been a new tank, or an upgrade to a larger system from smaller mature systems, I've always had it show up sooner or later. Good luck getting rid of it! Im sure it will go as it came, mine has always done so after a couple months of battling it. Chris
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No more tanks ![]() Cheers, Chris |
#15
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![]() Quote:
Quote:
Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#16
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![]() In regards to those tap addapters, they only cost about 5 or 10 bucks too!
Chris
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No more tanks ![]() Cheers, Chris |
#17
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Given sufficient thrust pigs will fly just fine. 90 Gallon LPS tank - Challice, Acans, Favia, Diplo and Zoos 125 Gallon SPS Coming Soon! |