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#11
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![]() ok i got my water test n the LFS told me that its a bit high but didt tell me how high but he told me my test kit its not the best 1 i can buy (saltwater master liquid test kit) told me to get a new 1 but 4 now i have to treat my 120g tank as a new tank ..............
![]() n fish out n let the 120T sit 4 1-2 weeks with out water change n add stability ..... so what do u reefers think ????????? plz help all the Corals n fish looks good if ne 1 like to take a look at the tank just pm me ok thnx 4 ne help chris
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Tank Info: -120gal -170 + lbs of LR -3-4 inches of sandbed -1 tang, 2 yellow wrasse, 1 dragon goby, 1 zebra goby, 1 lawnmower blenny, 1 per. clown, 1 blue damsel, 1 ladder goby, 1 horseshoe crab, 1 molly, 1 leopard wrasse -4 assorted anemones, star polyps, fox coral, pulsing xenia, button polyps, toadstools, assorted mushrooms, flower pot -inverts |
#12
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![]() Which store told you this???!!??? Did you tell them you use tapwater?
BTW, do you treat your tapwater with a dechlorinator? Also, how long have you had your tank running? Sorry, but I am having some trouble reading your abbreviated words and don't understand some of what you write. Could you please write in standard English ![]() |
#13
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![]() Edmonton city tap water is BAD. As Bev says, ammonia will be present as well as the chlorine. Letting your tapwater sit will let the chlorine dissipate but the ammonia will be present. Use Prime to make it non-toxic.
Good luck.
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This all started with a ten gallon and two clowns. |
#14
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![]() Because chloramine is a chemically bound compound, the chlorine will not dissapate but remain bound to the ammonia if left to sit.
Years ago, when only chlorine was used in Edmonton's tapwater, if tapwater was left to sit, indeed the chlorine would dissapate and there would be no ammonia present. Using a dechlorinator designed for use with chloramine, such as Prime and Amquel (and probably others), will neutralize the chlorine and convert the toxic ammonia to non-toxic ammonium. |
#15
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![]() good news
![]() anyways I went to my LFS (not mentioning btw) and I spoke to someone there and this person said that something is wrong with my cycle and that I need to treat my 120gal like a brand new tank. Also this person said that I don't have a good test kit and should purchase a new one asap. Also that I should take out all my fish and corals and put them in a QT for about 1-2 weeks. Also don't do any water changes for 2 weeks. This person also told me that I should be adding bacteria and new tank stabilizing solution as directed and also to add Prime as well until my tank is stable. So what's your opinion(s) and/or advice towards the advice given to me above? Thanks to Mr. Alberta, Ruth, Beverly, and Myanth for your help and info!
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Tank Info: -120gal -170 + lbs of LR -3-4 inches of sandbed -1 tang, 2 yellow wrasse, 1 dragon goby, 1 zebra goby, 1 lawnmower blenny, 1 per. clown, 1 blue damsel, 1 ladder goby, 1 horseshoe crab, 1 molly, 1 leopard wrasse -4 assorted anemones, star polyps, fox coral, pulsing xenia, button polyps, toadstools, assorted mushrooms, flower pot -inverts |
#16
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![]() Chris,
Your tank has been set up for 5 months. It has cycled by now, unless something large has died and you haven't noticed. However, your later tests conclude that you have 0 ppm amonia and nitrite, and 10 ppm nitrate. I don't think there is a problem with your cycle, and probably nothing has died in the tank, otherwise ammonia levels would still be at least 1 ppm. To be on the safe side, do the ammonia and nitrite tests again today to confirm your last test results. If they continue to be 0 ppm, I would not remove anything from your reef. There are several questions about your tank and how you treat your tapwater that have gone unanswered. These answers would sure help me better understand what's going on in your tank. |
#17
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![]() Quote:
1. There are no true LIVE bacteria products available in Canada. NONE. You would have to take something from an established tank. 2. New tank stabilizing solution does one thing. It breaks wastes into more basic components, like ammonia faster. This helps provide available food for your bacteria colonies to establish themselves in a new tank. In your specific situation, this could completely screw you over. You need to just chill and keep an eye on things. You said it yourself, "all the fish and corals look fine". Why would you start moving everything into a QT, risking stress and damage? Take it easy, ease up on feeding and keep an eye on it, it will probably sort itself out. |
#18
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![]() Thanks Bev. I had no idea that chlorine is not added but chlorimine. Learn something new everyday. I live on an acreage and add chlorine to my water but I have a carbon filter after the chlorine pump and then use a membrane nano filter after that for any disolved solids (well 70%).
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This all started with a ten gallon and two clowns. |
#19
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![]() Pre-2k, why wont you mention which LFS you talked to? We are hear to learn about the hobby, and the various LFS are a big part of the hobby.
Their advise was wrong, Bev proved why your kit showed 1ppm ammonia, she took the time to test the city water for you before and after treatment with Prime. Long term to solve your problem you need to use distilled or RO/RODI water, not treated city water for your tank. |