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#1
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![]() As a good reference point natural sea water has a KH of 8dKH or alkalinity of 2.9 meg/L.
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#2
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![]() okay... so the 170 KH is listed as mg/L. So is the cacium. It is a nutrifin test kit and it says optimal level of Ca is 400-425, I know alot of people are 450-475, and the optimal KH is 105-120 mg/L.
I have added Seachem calcium, powdered, at a rate of 7.5g/40gal. It says that it will raise Ca 18mg/L with each 5g/40gal dose, so I should get a little more increase than that. The maximum daily dose is 10g/40gal. I have mixed up enough top off water to last ten to eleven days at a rate of 7.5g/40gal. I should, after that period be somewhere in the 400 range. Is this too quick an increase? Should I dilute? And where should the KH really be? I was going by this test kit and no other knowledge. Since my questioning of it I have seen numbers ranging from 100 - 350. Bev... Ruth? Shine some brilliance on me. Thanks Mike
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This all started with a ten gallon and two clowns. |
#3
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![]() You should reveiw Bev's chemistry links that are a sticky in this forum to fully get the whole picture. I like to try to keep my levels at close to NSW (Natural Sea Water) so here is what I try to shoot for - a little more or less is not that big of a deal:
Alk - 2.9 meg/L or KH of 8 dKH Calcium - 400 - 425 ppm Magnesium - 1300-1500ppm I have always used Salifert test kits to test the majority of my levels in my aquariums. They are easy to use and from what I have read fairly accurate. The only one that I am convinced is not very accurate is the Phosphate test kit. As with everything in this hobby good things happen slowly and bad things happen quickly. If I was you I would be tempted to either take a sample of your water into a LFS to have it tested or to a friend that has all 3 of the above test kits to double check for accuracy. See where you are at with all 3 and then go from there - slowly adjusting, testing and re-testing. Over the course of a week or two you should be able to adjust. I can't remember what size of a system you are running but if it is not that big the easiest thing to do may be to just do a few large (50%) water changes. HTH |
#4
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![]() ok.....
The drops 17-18 I think you have multiplied that by 10......hence 170 that is mg/l or ppm these 2 are the same thing. dKH is the German reading I think most saltys use this (could be wrong there...lol) Lets start at the drops....... 17x10=170 17.85 is a factor 170/17.85= 9.52dKH now thats not bad at all....IMO The next one is your Mg I dont think you can move forward untill you know what readings you have. good luck P.S. GH is for fresh.......KH is for salt
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Richard _______________________________________ My wife believed me when I told her it was only going to cost about $500.00. that was over two years ago and I'm still grounded..... ![]() |
#5
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32"x32"x20" Cube-ish tank |
#6
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#7
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32"x32"x20" Cube-ish tank Last edited by mr_alberta; 02-19-2006 at 02:30 PM. |
#8
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![]() Hey, I'm old, but not that freaking old
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#9
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![]() Thanks huys. I will endeavor to find an Mg test kit. Ca is up to 300 this morning, seeing great white borders to my coraline and my green star has at least 6 new heads this morning. It hasn't grown at all since transplanting to the new tank.
I have been using the top up solution that I made and will keep using it until my readings are in the 425-475 range. Had some precip in the bottom of the top up container. I thought that was pretty normal. Have been monitoring Alk and it has not moved. Yippee. ![]() Mike. P.S. in the 21st century they have computers... under the accessories there is a calculator function. It is much smaller than the abacus or the solar powered... if you ignore the tower/monitor/printer/scanner/computer desk/etc. involved with it. On second thought... does anyone have a spare abacus lying around.
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This all started with a ten gallon and two clowns. |