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#11
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![]() i tried Kick-Ich 3 times:
worked once on banner fish did not work on porcupine puffer did not work on lemon peel since then, i use hypo salinity treatment and have better odds Tak
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always learning |
#12
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![]() Hey-I am a newbie as such...but this is what worked for me as per help I got...food literally soaked in garlic...I make my frozen food up the night before to feed the following day so has lots of soak time...plus I raised the temp to 85...was slow but it worked....and its natural...my fish are all great and they include a yellow wrasse, strawberry pseudochromis, niger trigger, true percula...I know strange combination but it works....plus now they have a valentini puffer and yellow eye kole tang...no further outbreaks with the new additions...so it must work..I don't like using meds as ..... these fish are so sensitive...and have never encountered meds before....SCARY!!
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No act of kindness, no matter how small, is ever wasted. Sarah |
#13
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![]() I forgot about the benifits of higher temp. to speed up the cycle. I'll do that when I get home and see what happens. So far I've only added 3 doses as per the recommended time frames, two of the fish still show spots but the lionfish is clearing up. All fish are still active and eating well but my water is really cloudy. It says on the bottle that skimming will significantly reduce the effectiveness of the medication, so I've only been skimming for a couple of hours on the none medication days.
They make the dosing cycles light then heavy then light again so we'll see how things appear by the end of the weekend and I'll update. BTW, the large bottle if Kick Ick is exactly enough to treat my tank/sump, 80 gallons.
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
#14
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![]() Danny I'd make sure the Ich is under control before you increase the temp. That speeds up the cycle yes but it also speeds up the spreading so until it's under control I'd stay away from that. Just my understanding.
Doug |
#15
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![]() Good idea. In my old tank I couldn't get my temp below 84, I never had a single outbreak of ick, go figure!
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
#16
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![]() Yeah it's tough, a lot of people are recommending tank temps that are lower than what we tend to keep ours at so I wonder if we don't keep them higher to prevent ICH etc.
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#17
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![]() I have also tried Kick-Ick several in the past. If your looking to rid the ick, its NOT a fix and IMO, found it was a waste of money. There is NO quick fix, although I wish there was. But since your trying product anyway, you will see yourself in no time.
If it is only the Regal that is infected... and has a history of getting ick, then I would feed foods soaked in garlic foods as well as do water changes to make sure water is prime condition. Also I would look at why he got ick. From new addition? Is it from stress? What caused the stress? Is there overcrowding? No enough hiding places for him? etc, etc. Cause perhaps if that problem corrected Regal will stay ick free. Best of luck, Lee P.S something to consider to when raising the temp, is the life cycle of the parasite does go through cycle faster, but it also speeds up the fish metabolism making them want to eat more, heart pumping faster and play harder. But also the key factor is that the higher temperature the less oxygen in the water. making it harder for the fish to breathe, especially when ick attacks the gill of the fish first, its two double whammies! But something to consider.
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~ LeeWorld ~ "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo |
#18
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![]() My regal got ick a couple of weeks ago and passed it on to most of the other fish. I fed Kent Garlic Extreme (peeyew
![]() Christy ![]()
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#19
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![]() Frankly i dont think anything exept hypo and copper work aganst ick. Its like a cold there is no cure but you can get over it yourself and grow a slight resistants to it.
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Sean ![]() Back in the good ole days ![]() |
#20
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![]() Lee, I just bought the regal tang about 3 weeks ago. There wasn't any spots on it at the LFS but with the move and seeing a lionfish as one of your tankmates, I think it was just stress. Lots of hiding places, he swims out in the open much more now that he's realized that Mr. Phoomps isn't going to eat him. I have fed garlic soaked food a couple of times. The only thing I've noticed is that the fish get hungry sooner in the day. I'll keep up with it from now on though as a preventative messure.
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |