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#11
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![]() Well, IMO, running it for a half hour with everything going down the drain probably only sent a few litres of water through your DI cartridge depending on your water pressure. In order to flush it properly you may have to run it longer. I would run it for at least 5 gallons worth and then discard that and see if you have better results afterwards.
Christy ![]()
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#12
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![]() Christy, so any idea what is causing the slime is that normal for RO/DI? Shouldn't the DI be removing anything that passes through the RO?
Doug |
#13
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![]() Quote:
Perhaps the DI beads may be coated in something to keep them moist since they are open to air if that canister is refillable?? I have the enclosed canister for DI beads (replace the whole cartridge) and I run at least a bucket of water (about 2.5 gallons) through it and toss that before I start making any water that is going to go in the tank. Just as a precaution. Walter, perhaps you should try contacting Aquasafe. I know its a hit or miss getting ahole of them, but just to check and see whats up with your DI beads. Christy ![]()
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#14
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![]() I've made about 50g total. Last night I dumped the container I was using and made about 15g of new water. When I looked this morning, it had the same feel and look to it. I'd think for sure after 35g it should be rinsed/cleaned out? Tonight I'll disable the DI and see what happens with the RO only.
Walter Quote:
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#15
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![]() Okay Christy, was curious about that. It wouldn't make sense for DI to be exposed to the water first because it removes more than RO does and you'd exaust your DI quicker. This way, (RO first) the RO unit removes somewhere around 90%-95% of the contaminants and the DI removes the rest.
Your idea about maybe the DI resins have something on them is a good thought, I didn't know that they needed to be kept moist (DOH I remember hearing that now) That sure would make sense then. Doug |
#16
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![]() Quote:
Christy ![]()
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#17
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![]() What's even more weird, is my AquaC 150 seemed to work fine. When I replaced it with the ER, I thought there was something wrong with the skimmer... It was getting frusterating! Atleast I have something to blame now!
![]() Walter
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#18
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![]() Quote:
Walter, I would bypass the DI cannister and maybe try rinsing them with water separately. Maybe try testing the beads separately to see if it is them that slimes up your water. If there is a lubricant on them that would explain why it messes with your skimmer. Fatty foods like mysis will do the same thing.
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
#19
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![]() Alright, how long should I have flushed the membrane? How often does it need to be done?
Walter
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#20
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![]() They said in the instructions about once a month for a few minutes depending on use. I would just call them up or email them with this issue, they might have better advice.
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |