|
|
|
|
|
#1
09-18-2019, 03:59 AM
|
||||
|
||||
So, changed my moving plans once again. Getting my dad to help out. So far he's excited about it so that's a good thing.
Sept 28th I will take the tank, water and rocks to my grandparents house Oct 1st my dad will pick up the tank and set it up at the new place. Oct 3rd or 4th Dad will take the fish and coral from our place to our new place. 4-5 hour trip. The good part about this plan is I don't have to move things twice. The bad part is I won't be around until later on the 5th if something goes wrong. My questions are what's the best way of transporting and keeping the cycled rock until the new tank is setup? Just keep it damp while transporting and then setup a rubbermaid again until the tank is setup? On the weekend I picked up a batter powered air pump and some heating pads the LFS had. They are called uni heat. Anyone used anything like that before? I'm hoping I can tape one to the side of each 5 gallon bucket and it will keep the water warm enough for the fish and coral. The cycle of the rocks is coming along. Have nitrites and nitrates now! 
|
|
#2
09-18-2019, 05:39 AM
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Pick up a Seachem Ammo Alert from J&L (currently out of stock) and a bottle of Seachem Stability or a similar bacterial starter. Plus a bottle of ammonia locker such as Seachem AmGuard.
You are going to have a cycle, and just getting the new tank up and running won't be able to deal with supporting your fish. Get the Stability happening right away when you place the first tank move and use a pump, heater, some kind of filter and preferrably disturb the surface for oxygenation. This will help deal with the bacterial loss during the first move. The bacterial starter will start to process the ammonia needed to kick-start the cycle. If you prefer, you can add liquid ammonia, but this can take WEEKS. Dad makes the 2nd tank move keep up the Stability dosing and pump(s) heater(s) for bacterial generation. After the final transfer, test daily(or multiple times/day) for ammonia. If NH3 is present in too high of a concentration(keep below 0.02PPM), perform large(dependant on reading) water changes, or use a binder such as recommended above(AmGuard) and test NO2 and NO3. If either rises above acceptable limits(trace NO2 and over 10 NO3) perform water changes accordingly. 20-50 or even 100% Keep dosing bacterial supplement for at least 1 week and watch NH3, NO2 and NO3. If any rises above acceptable limits perform large water changes as required. Ideally, you want NH3 to be near undetectable, NO2 very low/not detectable, and NO3 below 10. If NO3 rises above 50PPM, perform a HUGH/75-100% waterchange as this can become toxic to fish. Keep up water changes/low feedings until NH3 stops showing on tests, NO2 stops showing on tests, and NH3 is below 2-5ppm. This will take upwards of 2 months, but will show you have finished your new cycle.
|
|
#3
09-18-2019, 03:44 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
That's a good idea. I have one of those ammonia badges that I use for my QT tank. Good call on setting that up on the new tank! I have the new rocks cycling in an attempt to minimize the cycle with the new tank. I also have a sponge from a HOB filter that has been sitting in the sump for a few months. I was going to put that in the bucket with the fish and then add it to the new tank as well. I will be sure to buy some stability and AMGuard. One of my concerns is making new water. I have a new RO/di Unit on order, but it might not be setup until after we move all our stuff there.
|
Hybrid Mode
