Algae help needed

[Frogger]

Originally Posted by Llorgon

Thanks! Going through those forums now.


Will hydrogen peroxide kill any pods, fish, coral in the tank?

Depends on the dosage. Hydrogen Peroxide will kill everything if the dosage is too high. I have used it before, very effective at controlling the non-parasitic flatworms, did nothing for my bryopsis (reason for using), not sure how it works on dinos.

I beat dinos by adding a magnum micron filter, a UV sterilizer, added daily dosages of KNO3 and turkey basted the rocks every time I saw dinos start to appear. I had to change the magnum cartridge daily when I first started. Took a couple weeks to get it under control. This worked for me, it might not work for you, every tank is different and there are many different causes of Dinos

I have not ever let my nitrates and phosphates get to zero again.

[Llorgon]

Originally Posted by Frogger

Depends on the dosage. Hydrogen Peroxide will kill everything if the dosage is too high. I have used it before, very effective at controlling the non-parasitic flatworms, did nothing for my bryopsis (reason for using), not sure how it works on dinos.

I beat dinos by adding a magnum micron filter, a UV sterilizer, added daily dosages of KNO3 and turkey basted the rocks every time I saw dinos start to appear. I had to change the magnum cartridge daily when I first started. Took a couple weeks to get it under control. This worked for me, it might not work for you, every tank is different and there are many different causes of Dinos

I have not ever let my nitrates and phosphates get to zero again.

I know see why people say don't let nitrates and phosphates get to zero. What did you use for dosing KNO3?


I have been blowing off the rocks and everything with a turkey baster. Hasn't done much yet. Does keep it off the corals though.

[kyl]

Potassium nitrate from a FW guy in Richmond is the "cleanest" source.

[Frogger]

Originally Posted by Llorgon

I know see why people say don't let nitrates and phosphates get to zero. What did you use for dosing KNO3?


I have been blowing off the rocks and everything with a turkey baster. Hasn't done much yet. Does keep it off the corals though.

From what I read if you do not filter out the dinos and and/or kill them with UV sterilizer than they just regrow somewhere else. It is important to slow the flow through your UV sterilizer down, it is contact time that kills them.

[Llorgon]

Originally Posted by Frogger

From what I read if you do not filter out the dinos and and/or kill them with UV sterilizer than they just regrow somewhere else. It is important to slow the flow through your UV sterilizer down, it is contact time that kills them.

I think you are correct. From what I have been reading, dirty water helps reduce them. They can be caused when nitrates and phosphates go down to zero(which mine appear to be).



So I think my steps will be:
Blackout for 3 days, currently on day 2.
Increase feedings to try and help build up nitrates/phosphates
Added a filter sock which I will clean daily
Pickup some nitrate and or phosphate supplements to help increase them
Suck up as much of the dinos as I can into a filter sock and bucket. Then return that water to the tank.
Turn off skimmer? Not sure if this is needed or not.


Unfortunately I don't have the budget for a uv sterilizer right now.

[ReefMadness]

that may work but I would microscope those dinos to rule out some treatment methods. amphidinium are more common and considerably easier to deal with than the prorocentrum I fought for over a year.
otherwise, affordable jebao uv sterilizers can be found on eBay that only require a pump and rather than nutrient loading the system the better road to me is just to start the stability routine through an easily repeatable feeding regimen and perhaps a new fish or 2. instability may well have got this mess started and doesn't help remedy it.

[Llorgon]

Originally Posted by ReefMadness

that may work but I would microscope those dinos to rule out some treatment methods. amphidinium are more common and considerably easier to deal with than the prorocentrum I fought for over a year.
otherwise, affordable jebao uv sterilizers can be found on eBay that only require a pump and rather than nutrient loading the system the better road to me is just to start the stability routine through an easily repeatable feeding regimen and perhaps a new fish or 2. instability may well have got this mess started and doesn't help remedy it.

I will have to pickup a microscope and look into those uv sterilizers. I don't have much room under the tank/in the sump so hopefully I can find one that fits.



Adding a couple fish is a good idea. Dinoflagellates are only toxic to snails, correct?

I'm sure instability started this. It's a relatively new tank and I am new to reefing. Figuring out what instability caused this seems to be tricky though.

[ReefMadness]

Originally Posted by Llorgon

I will have to pickup a microscope and look into those uv sterilizers. I don't have much room under the tank/in the sump so hopefully I can find one that fits.



Adding a couple fish is a good idea. Dinoflagellates are only toxic to snails, correct?

I'm sure instability started this. It's a relatively new tank and I am new to reefing. Figuring out what instability caused this seems to be tricky though.

a new system lacks chemical and biological stability right out of the gate because of all the varying stages your rock and substrate (if you have any) are at in terms of maturing.
a lot of progress can be made with just rock solid consistent feeding and resisting the temptation to change things.
dinos described are toxic to "inverts" and I can confirm snails are on the list but I'm not entirely sure if it affects crabs or otherwise.
there is no catch all solution for beating dinos which is why I recommend scoping them. from there you can at least make decisions based on others success instead of spending, causing instability and getting frustrated.