Diy calcium chloride (A Little Help)

[CHEAPREEF]

Originally Posted by Razor Ramon

Yea yea tanks (tanks)
What is the difference you have seen in Your experiences switching to The name brand product.
Same or something better?

I switched to a completely different type of product, ATI Essentials is a 3 componant system that doses all trace elements as well as Alk, Ca and Mag. I switched to this as it is like the trion method so no water changes and more stable tank. I still do monthly sump cleanout etc, so it's a small 5-7% WC once a month.
I never saw anything but great results from the dow flake, it's exactly what you get in the bulk reef stuff.
If you look at Randy's new high PH boost recipe it's now using sodium hydroxide, also known as lye and caustic soda. That should get the na sayers talking.

[Frogger]

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Originally Posted by CHEAPREEF

I switched to a completely different type of product, ATI Essentials is a 3 componant system that doses all trace elements as well as Alk, Ca and Mag. I switched to this as it is like the trion method so no water changes and more stable tank. I still do monthly sump cleanout etc, so it's a small 5-7% WC once a month.
I never saw anything but great results from the dow flake, it's exactly what you get in the bulk reef stuff.
If you look at Randy's new high PH boost recipe it's now using sodium hydroxide, also known as lye and caustic soda. That should get the na sayers talking.

Us na sayers are only concerned about adding a road salt to our aquariums unchecked. I am sure that Aquaforest would beg to differ on their supplier of cacl. Even Ray from Reef Supplies is always looking for purer suppliers of their calcium and alkalinity components. Dow chemicals makes many different grades of their products all the way up to research grades in bulk. The only thing that changes is the purity of the chemicals.

Sodium hydroxide in its purest form is still only Na, and OH ions. There are reefers that add bleach (NaClO) and Hydrogen peroxide to their tanks successfully. As long as you know what and why you are adding these ions to your tank you can be successful.

The ATI Esentials is basically the Balling method (Randy Holmes Recipe) with extra trace elements. Your choice to not do water changes is only a choice not something the system on its own encourages or benefits from.

The Triton method is basically the Balling Method with a large sump/refugium with reverse daylight algae scrubber with multiple types of different algaes and beneficial organisms. It uses detailed regular testing to determine the exact amount of trace elements to add. It also adds a fertilizer with its 4 part calcium alkalinity component. The Triton System still requires water changes when the values get out of wack.

[CHEAPREEF]

Originally Posted by Frogger

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The ATI Esentials is basically the Balling method (Randy Holmes Recipe) with extra trace elements. Your choice to not do water changes is only a choice not something the system on its own encourages or benefits from.

I talked with the US ATI rep quite a bit before switching over, If you read up on it you'll see they recommend no Water Changes and ICP test every 3 months.

But your right to each there own, lots of people haven't done water changes in years without doseing anything but 2 part or a calcium reactor.

[Frogger]

Originally Posted by CHEAPREEF

I talked with the US ATI rep quite a bit before switching over, If you read up on it you'll see they recommend no Water Changes and ICP test every 3 months.

Sorry I stand corrected ATI Essentials recommends ICP Testing. Who do you send your samples off to? I have been considering using Coralvue in Colorado to do my testing.

I do not believe doing testing changes the need for water changes as water changes are required to return our tanks back to desired levels when the levels get too high. The testing does provide better insight into when those water changes are required.

[Razor Ramon]

I really like the idea of the means to send the water off monthly and they give you a complex break down of the water chemistry.
If a product is bad or you have equipment failing and adding something bad like metal or chemical poising to your tank it can be cought before it builds to a toxic level.
How much dose this service cost for a year and is there many labes that will do this for reefers.
Cool tec for sure !
Not really up on bleach/ hydro peroxide can you post a link if it’s worth a read .
thanks .
I know there is reactors for hydro peroxide to add radical oxygen to the system but not widely used by many in reef settings .

[Razor Ramon]

Took the bags back calcium chloride anhidrous there chemist at the chemical supplier had a breef talk with me said it had been contaminated because it acts like a descant ( no moisture) so it absorbs like a sponge . He figured the factory’s steel containers had rust so it absorbed iron oxide .
That is the red mud that I screened out .
So is it safe no one knows
if it’s iron oxide probly ok
but it would been realy bad if it was used if it’s copper sulphate.
They replaced the product and gave me the contaminated stuff for my drive way.
Thanks all for your input.