125 Gallon Display Tank / 32 Gallon Frag Tank

[st0rmtr000pa]

So today I went and picked up a 100 pounds of Dry Macro Rock from J&L. I decided to go the dry rock route because I don't want to deal with any pests or bad types of algae. Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with this rock? I've heard good and bad so far. I hear they can leach phosphates? But others claim that it doesn't? I thought I may also have to pick up more than a 100 pounds but I took it all out of the boxes and it look like more than enough. Now I am going to through it in a garbage can for at least a month and let it cycle. Anyone know where to get Prodibio?

[kyl]

I've used it on all my tanks, and my shallow 60 as of three days ago. I like it, easy to cement together (hydraulic cement, e-marco etc), and you don't really have to do much more than rinse and dip it in RO for an hour or so to get most of the dust out/off. I haven't noticed PO4 spiking months later, there really isn't much of any dead organic material to break down (unlike pukani) as it's a quarried material.

If you want to break the pieces down a hammer and chisel will be pretty easy, and it usually breaks off with a lot of character left in the rock, rather than just a sliced section. You can also cut it with a wet tile saw to get a flat, stable bottom for the glass if that matters.

[st0rmtr000pa]

Originally Posted by kyl

I've used it on all my tanks, and my shallow 60 as of three days ago. I like it, easy to cement together (hydraulic cement, e-marco etc), and you don't really have to do much more than rinse and dip it in RO for an hour or so to get most of the dust out/off. I haven't noticed PO4 spiking months later, there really isn't much of any dead organic material to break down (unlike pukani) as it's a quarried material.

If you want to break the pieces down a hammer and chisel will be pretty easy, and it usually breaks off with a lot of character left in the rock, rather than just a sliced section. You can also cut it with a wet tile saw to get a flat, stable bottom for the glass if that matters.

That’s great to know thanks Kyl! I think the rock looks much better than live rock myself. Plus it seems much easier to scape and you have much better outcomes. I’m just going to cycle mine for a month in a garbage can and hopefully that prevents and phosphate leaching if there is even any to begin with. What type of setups are you running with the rock? Pictures?

[kyl]

Far from an expert, and don't want to hijack but here's the new shallow 60g I got built. Just moved the two original halves I had in a IM fusion 20 nano tank into it tonight. The left section from the nano I did up with just superglue when I started in the hobby, but the rest was with hydraulic cement that I got from Eli in Calgary before he packed up shop.

Dry: https://flic.kr/p/23weLNy
Wet: https://flic.kr/p/JN2fSk
Nano original: https://flic.kr/p/E5TgVK

The next is in a 65g Aqueon with that curved internal overflow.
Wet but new: https://flic.kr/p/S2V81e wanted a high wall look
After a year or so: https://flic.kr/p/YXzXUo multiple tank issues, never did get much coral in it with two fallow periods in a year, then some nasty cyano when I started using AF reef salt last fall.

[st0rmtr000pa]

Well your tanks look awesome! I love the look of it covered in Coraline as well. Ya I keep hearing the same thing about the AF Salt. How are you liking your gyres?

[kyl]

150 gen1 - went through two motor housings, one gen1 controller and one set of paddles, all RMA replaced. Happy with it overall, not impressed that it cost so much to get apex connected.

230's - getting quieter now that they've slimed up a bit, more powerful than I thought they would be. Running on the new maxspect controller, which itself is nice, but I don't really like how confusing it seems to be to program and would rather they be 0-10v via Apex. I am not paying almost $400 to do that though.

[dave_C]

sorry run into a small delay waiting for the acrylic to come back but here is a few pic's to hold you over lol