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#1
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![]() Quote:
I'm confused about your phosphate reading. You mentioned the Hanna checker read 200ppb and then in your last post you stated your phosphate was 1ppm. I'm assuming you are using the Hanna ULR phosphorus checker if you recieved a ppb reading. In that case you would multiply the 200 by 3.066 and then divide by 1000 to get your phosphate reading in ppm. In your case 200ppb phosphorus equates to .6132ppm phosphate. I'm any case your nitrates and phosphates are high. As previously questioned, what's your current fish stocking (bioload) as well as what is your feeding regiment? Are you dosing anything to the tank right now? You can use a phosphate remover, I myself prefer rowaphos, however this will not address your nitrates. Large water changes upwards of 50% would get those levels down, but firstly it's a good idea to figure out how your levels got to this point. Also what test kit are you using for nitrate readings. Last edited by dcw1sfu; 05-29-2017 at 03:15 PM. |
#2
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![]() Hey I also noticed in your last pic you have 2 phosban 150 reactors. What are you running in those?
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#3
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![]() I see Roaphos in one pic are you running that? That stuff is awesome for phosphate reduction.
Secondly, your tank look really clean for high phosphate. Like no algae, clean sand bed, are you sure you have high phosphates? I don't see many fish in the pictures, I'm assuming your bioload is really low? I'm wondering if your checker is off or something? I mean the first sign of his phosphate is algae and your tanks looks incredibly clean. |
#4
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![]() My Hanna checker was reading over 200ppb prior to a water change.
Then I took a sample to jl and had it checked again. That the new test I set up gfo stating lightly and carbon. Fish is 1 blue damsal 2 med. Foxfaces 1 tomadow clown 1 Orange wraps 1 little grey guy with a spike on his head. Can't remember 1 sand shifting gobbie |