Phosphate Reduction

[DKoKoMan]

Originally Posted by intarsiabox

Marine Experience sells it locally, AI may now as well.

Haven't been over to Neil's in a bit, that will make my life a lot easier to pick it up locally.

[hunggi74]

The ULR Hanna phosphorus checker turns off after 10 seconds of displaying the results as well. There's a video on YouTube by Marine Depot that guides you through the process. I find if the vial is not cleaned well you will get results that swing dramatically. If you get this test rinse the glass vial well with vinegar water and a brush and you will get a more consistent reading.
I would use Foz Down if your PO4 level is indeed at 2ppm. Much more economical option than reactors and media.
Lastly, don't use API test kits. They're not very reliable/accurate.
Good luck.

[DKoKoMan]

Originally Posted by hunggi74

The ULR Hanna phosphorus checker turns off after 10 seconds of displaying the results as well. There's a video on YouTube by Marine Depot that guides you through the process. I find if the vial is not cleaned well you will get results that swing dramatically. If you get this test rinse the glass vial well with vinegar water and a brush and you will get a more consistent reading.
I would use Foz Down if your PO4 level is indeed at 2ppm. Much more economical option than reactors and media.
Lastly, don't use API test kits. They're not very reliable/accurate.
Good luck.

Had the LFS yet my water today and my phosphates were confirmed to be 2ppm Not good (shakes head in disgust), I'm not sure where it spiralled off but I'm on it. Will be doing a water change in the next couple days (blasting rocks and cleaning sand), as well I picked up some Foz Down and dosed the first round.

Once I get the phosphates down close to zero I'm looking at running GFO or Biopellets in a reactor. Does anyone have any recommendations as to what they are using which is working at successfully keeping phosphates and nitrates down. I also picked up a Salifert PO4 test kit (hopefully this will get me by) until I can get a Hanna checker.

I have noticed some of my SPS starting to STN and found 2 frags which got knocked down on the sand bed (birds of paradise and green Acro). Unfortunately these were only skeletons upon my return from vacation. All the fish seem to be happy still. Did a major algae cleaning in the DT and restocked CUC. On another note I observed the overflow to have a large amount of hair algae that I will have to get rid of during my water change.

***stay tuned and crossing my fingers that my tank doesn't crash***

[Myka]

Yikes! Could you cover the overflow with a black acrylic lid? I get them made at a plastics shop here, costs about $10.

Maintenance, stocking, and feeding techniques can keep NO3 and PO4 at close to zero levels, but not everyone wants to follow that method. Biopellets are a good option - they work just fine in a TLF reactor. Most of the issues with biopellets are when people use too many. A lot of tanks that need biopellets also need GFO. I prefer biopellets over liquid carbon dosing (vodka/vinegar/NOPOX/etc) because there is less chance of bacteria film IME.

Originally Posted by hunggi74

The ULR Hanna phosphorus checker turns off after 10 seconds of displaying the results as well.

The ULR ones I've used stay on for at least a minute or two. I've not come across an ULR that turned off at 10 secs, just the LR. That's weird that they would be different. How old is yours?

[TimT]

Lots of good info in this thread and I'd like to add a few things.

The most cost effective method of lowering high phosphate levels is to use Foz Down. It is best to slowly lower the Phosphate levels as you can easily shock the corals. Recommendation is no more than 0.25mg/l per 24hr period, even better is 0.25mg/l in a 48 hr period, especially if you have sensitive corals. Phosphate levels can be easily maintained between .02mg/l and .03mg/l with Foz Down and no need to use GFO.

While on the topic of GFO there is a few negative effects of GFO on our systems. The first being that GFO releases Iron into the water which is a nutrient for macroalgaes. Second is that GFO is used in potable water systems to absorb arsenic. It also absorbs other heavy metals, sometimes known as trace metals in reefkeeping.

My preferred method of carbon dosing is to use Vodka/Vinegar. I prefer this method over biopellets as it is simpler and easier to regulate/control. Since free floating bacteria is used as a food source for the majority of corals, including acros. It is beneficial for the corals to use Vodka/Vinegar dosing as it naturally produces a food source.

If your water sample is over range(too high Phosphate level) in your tester you can dilute sample by 50% or 75% with RO/DI water and then just multiply the results by 2 or 3.

Cheers,
Tim

[DKoKoMan]

Originally Posted by Myka

Yikes! Could you cover the overflow with a black acrylic lid? I get them made at a plastics shop here, costs about $10.

Maintenance, stocking, and feeding techniques can keep NO3 and PO4 at close to zero levels, but not everyone wants to follow that method. Biopellets are a good option - they work just fine in a TLF reactor. Most of the issues with biopellets are when people use too many. A lot of tanks that need biopellets also need GFO. I prefer biopellets over liquid carbon dosing (vodka/vinegar/NOPOX/etc) because there is less chance of bacteria film IME.

Mindy the black acrylic lid is a great idea and I will see if I can find one. I have definitely reduced and altered my feeding habits in hope to cut down on PO4. I am thinking I will get a TLF 150 reactor and run bio pellets as part of my system. ***This is why I need to finish my basement faster to transfer the 75g in to a 150g ***

Originally Posted by TimT

Lots of good info in this thread and I'd like to add a few things.

The most cost effective method of lowering high phosphate levels is to use Foz Down. It is best to slowly lower the Phosphate levels as you can easily shock the corals. Recommendation is no more than 0.25mg/l per 24hr period, even better is 0.25mg/l in a 48 hr period, especially if you have sensitive corals. Phosphate levels can be easily maintained between .02mg/l and .03mg/l with Foz Down and no need to use GFO.


I just started using the Foz Down and can add it again today. From what I have been hearing it is a great product for reduction of PO4. I'm not sure what the negative is for long term use though.

If your water sample is over range(too high Phosphate level) in your tester you can dilute sample by 50% or 75% with RO/DI water and then just multiply the results by 2 or 3.


Never thought of manipulating the water sample this way to register for testing. I'm hoping to get the phosphate down slowly and consistently to prevent any further shock.


Cheers,
Tim

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[TimT]

Originally Posted by DKoKoMan

I just started using the Foz Down and can add it again today. From what I have been hearing it is a great product for reduction of PO4. I'm not sure what the negative is for long term use though.

Glad to hear you got some Foz Down locally.

I have not observed any issues with long term Foz Down usage. I have used it for at least 3 years in my acro culture system. There was a lot(30) of fish in with the acros so I had to keep the Phosphates under control. I would feed Pacifica plankton, juice and all, twice a day.

Once I started using Foz Down I never went back to GFO.

[DKoKoMan]

Thanks TimT for the advice! I will definitely continue to use it and stock up when o find more as the LFS only had 1 left.