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#1
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![]() Right, you did say that.
In that case I would put the T5 in the middle and the Kessils around the perimeter pointed inwards, for the same reasons stated before, this will utilize the colour from the Kessil the best. I think the T5 will still do a good enough job reducing shadows being in the middle. If it was all about growth, I would probably put the T5 on the outside, but for a display tank, LED goes around the perimeter, IMO. |
#2
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![]() I do like the T5's in the middle idea better. Especially too because one 48" ATI 8x bulb is much cheaper than two 4 bulb fixtures. Thank you!
Hoping a 48" ATI will be sufficiently long enough for a 54" L tank with a narrow overflow on the 34" wall end. From what I've read that should be plenty. Opinions anyone? To make the tank any longer (ie and use a 60" ATI) makes the tank kind of long for where it will be sitting. And for help with the over flow, returns and power head positioning should I be starting another thread? I have some ideas and questions based on my own experiences I would appreciate bouncing off someone. Please😊 |
#3
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![]() 48" bulb on a 54" tank is absolutely fine IMO.
It's only 3" on either side, some of which could be occupied by the perimeter of your hood if you are building one, so its nice to have a little space. You could also consider putting the Kessils closer to the ends, in the 4 corners pointed towards center a bit, that way you get a bit of LED on that short end wall. See drawing below. Ya I would start another thread like a build journal, that's what I'm doing, then you can discuss the multiple topics in one thread easier, although certain things might get more exposure in specific threads. |
#4
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![]() My peninsula tank was 72"L x 28"w x 18"h.
48" ati dimmable was plenty at 10" above the water. It was offset so it was equal distance from the overflow to the opposite end. It was a sps tank with mostly acros. |
#5
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![]() That's what I'll do then. Thanks so much)
![]() Hmmm....maybe I will make the tank 58" long instead of 54". Didn't realize the 48" would give that much light.😎 |
#6
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![]() Why not do what Bulk reef supply did with their BRS 160 but replace the ap700 with whichever kessil you plan on using? In my opinion with kessils\t5 you do not need the expensive ati fixture. Also 8 bulbs is waaaaaay to much light for a tank that is only 22" high you will burn/ bleach your corals in my opinion.
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#7
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![]() Thank you, and I do like that idea but am concerned that because the tank is so wide (34") that I might not have enough coverage on the sides.
Also, I am admittedly very new to the retrofit idea. Ideally I wanted programmable T5's. Can that be done with the retro kits somehow without breaking the bank? |
#8
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![]() Oh I didin't see the 34" wide part. Not without breaking the bank unfortunately. The only easy source I have found for dimmable T5 ballast in canada is reef supplies that sell the ati dimmable ballast and they are $80 for a ballast for 2 36" bulbs. And they don't come with the kit... You can retrofit T5's using this ballast because it uses a 0-10v source for dimming which an apex or reef keeper (extra module is required with the reef keeper. Price will add up if you want to go this route beacuse you will need the controller.
If you haven't built the tank yet consider making the maximum width 24" or less or it gets very expensive to light. |
#9
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![]() Why not get 2 4 bulb fixtures and place Kessils in the middle. You can move them a bit for light coverage. This is my setup (30" wide) when my T5 fixtures arrive.
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#10
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![]() I'd go 48"8 bulb t5 hybrid and call it a day.
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riceboys 82.7 gallon sps dominant tank -concept built 3'x2'x22" full starfire tank with starfire 1 piece eurobrace and built in wave box, 1 jebao wp25, 4 mp10wes, ati led Hybrid 8 bulb fixture, csc 250 skimmer, Magdrive 18 return pump, apex lite, custom sump from concepts, biopellet reactor and carbon and gfo,bubble magnus doser and jbj ato, custom acrylic frag tank with 6 bulb t5 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=70851 |