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Old 10-23-2016, 08:45 PM
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Ok, so this is interesting:

1.5ppm NO3
0.01ppm PO4

And the water is cloudy! So, as soon as the bacteria had enough NO3 they went crazy. I tested PO4 twice. First time showed as 0. Second showed as 5ppb phosphorus (.015ppm PO4).

I'll let the bacteria bloom pass, then I'll resume dosing NaNO3.
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Old 10-25-2016, 05:09 AM
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PO4: .024ppm
NO3: Didn't get home until super late. I don't know about anybody else, but I can't get a very good read on the Salifert test without sunlight at my back. Artificial light just doesn't do it for me.


My skimmer pulled a half a cup of the nastiest crud in the last 24hours! Very thick and smelly!

Can't really comment on how things are looking as the lights were off when I left this morning and were off by the time I got home. Both anemones look deflated, but that's not necessary abnormal. Overal things are still coloring up from the bleaching. Steady improvement over the last few days.
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Old 10-25-2016, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warriorcookie View Post
And the water is cloudy! So, as soon as the bacteria had enough NO3 they went crazy.


Quote:
Originally Posted by warriorcookie
I don't know about anybody else, but I can't get a very good read on the Salifert test without sunlight at my back. Artificial light just doesn't do it for me.
Try using a cool white fluorescent tube for checking. Warm colored bulbs make the NO3 kit impossible to read, but yeah sunlight is easiest. When the Salifert kit is used up, try the Red Sea Pro nitrate kit - it has a second vial that you match the colors to each other. I find it easier to read than Salifert when NO3 is less than 10 ppm.
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Old 10-25-2016, 02:51 PM
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This is interesting as I have the exact issue zero nitrate and phosphate always .03-.07 by the way Hanna is your best bet for nitrate test kit screw the color matching game.
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Old 10-25-2016, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myka View Post
Try using a cool white fluorescent tube for checking. Warm colored bulbs make the NO3 kit impossible to read, but yeah sunlight is easiest. When the Salifert kit is used up, try the Red Sea Pro nitrate kit - it has a second vial that you match the colors to each other. I find it easier to read than Salifert when NO3 is less than 10 ppm.
I've got a garage full of them. I'll try it this afternoon. I'll check in in both daylight and the garage and see if there's a difference.



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This is interesting as I have the exact issue zero nitrate and phosphate always .03-.07 by the way Hanna is your best bet for nitrate test kit screw the color matching game.
Ya, I agree but Hanna doesn't make a hand held colorimeter for Nitrate. Only Nitrite... They make a portable photometer, but it's $355 USD!

It feels so weird dosing nitrate.... I've been so proud I've had undetectable levels for the last year, but frustrated with the amount of cyano I've battled...
It makes sense. Bacteria, corals, fish, you, me all need Carbon, Nitrogen, and Phosphorus in different ratios. The ratios are different depending on the organism, but it's a triangle. My reef was deficient in Nitrogen. Some are deficient in Phosphorus or Carbon. If you feed the bacteria enough of all three they flourish. I'm pretty sure the cyano was doing so well previously because it was getting plenty of carbon and phosphate, and for nitrogen they are particularly good at "fixing" atmospheric nitrogen.
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Old 10-26-2016, 02:03 AM
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The lights in the garage seem to make it easier to read the Salifert NO3 test.

NO3: 2.5ppm
PO4: .03ppm

Yesterday I dosed 1ppm NO3, today was none.

Seems now PO4 is the limiting nutrient. NO3 is the highest I'd like to see it. I'll stop dosing until it gets below 1ppm. Lets see how long it takes.
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Old 10-26-2016, 02:51 AM
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Are you running rowa or something to absorb phosphate? or at this point just relying on the nitrate to help keep phosphate low .
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Old 10-26-2016, 04:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryanerickson View Post
Are you running rowa or something to absorb phosphate? or at this point just relying on the nitrate to help keep phosphate low .
I was previously running HCGFO, but have shut it off. The idea is to find a balance where the bacteria keep both nitrate and phosphate low. I hope to only have to dose carbon. I expect I will occasionally have to dose NaNO3 from time to time, but I'd like the tank's chemistry to keep everything in balance on its own.

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Hanna doesn't make a checker or photometer that is seawater compatible. The instruments can't "see" through the high TDS of seawater.
So, I couldn't find the info, but is the Hanna HI96728 freshwater only?
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