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#11
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![]() Before you go and install both of those Fiji Purple bulbs you may want to switch one of those for a blue or actinic (I would go with blue in your case so you can get some "extra" PAR out of it). I find the FP to be very pink, and I wouldn't want to supplement my halides with just the FPs...it would be too pink looking imo. Just a thought...
I don't think you will have troubles keeping SPS in your tank at all (just based on your lighting lol). In your upper 1/3 I'm sure you could keep Acros, stylos, etc. Mid 1/3 some lower light Acros, Milles, birds, Montis, etc. Lower 1/3 keep your favourite LPS and some deepwater Acros. Of course all the SPS in the lower sections could also go up higher. Just be careful with any deepwater Acros that you don't overlight them without slow acclimation to the higher position. For starter SPS I would suggest Milles, Montis, Snappy's rainbow stylo (his is super hardy fast grower). I find Milles are generally quite hardy, but they do take a bit of attention to have nice coloring so they are good for "testing the water". I don't suggest birdnests as starter SPS as many can be finicky. They seem to be the first ones to go with RTN or a tank crash, and seem more susceptible to being overtaken by filamentous algae. They seem to be more sensitive to low alkalinity too. Be careful making all these new changes to your tank too. My tank had one foot in the crash zone for several weeks after I made too many changes too quickly. Be very careful when you add Zeolites for the first time (if you decide to go the route of Zeovit). I would use 1/4 to 1/2 of the recommended amount at first. The LPS may suffer if you don't. Last edited by Myka; 12-05-2009 at 10:18 PM. |
#12
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![]() Out of curiosity, what are you planning for a zeo reactor?
One thing about zeo that I found, is that you really need to get the flow rate right through the stones. I was considering zeo again for my solana but without a reactor, the flow rate through the back compartments (so running the stones "passively") was much too high and would probably starve the tank killing coral. Just curious if you have a DIY idea or found a small HOB reactor or something? I was also thinking about using a phosban reactor but then the only real way I could think of to do this is to shake the whole reactor each day...not gonna happen lol. |
#13
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![]() Quote:
Yes it sounds like going slowly with the zeolites is the advisable.
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CadLights 39G Signature Series Started April, 2008 |
#14
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![]() Quote:
Otherwise somewhere in a media bag that is easy to reach everyday. Not all of the water flows through the same route in the compartments, so that is an option. Also building a basket of some sort to hold the media bag in a convenient spot could work. This question regarding zeolites and AIO tanks would be a good thread.
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CadLights 39G Signature Series Started April, 2008 |
#15
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![]() Quote:
But you can probably get some good advice about your specific system on the zeo forum. |
#16
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![]() Quote:
Comments from: http://www.zeovit.com/forums/showthr...926#post182926 Hi Oscar, the maximum zeolite flow rate is 100gph per ltr. of zeolite used. Pro-rate to your net vol. Bob
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CadLights 39G Signature Series Started April, 2008 |
#17
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![]() Fyi, the higher the flow rate (like 100 gph per litre) the more aggressive the Zeolites are.
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#18
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![]() Yeah this is what I was getting at. I killed off a few corals when I started up because I had the flow rate wrong. It can cause problems very fast which is my concern for running the stones passively in the back of an AIO tank. If you get the flow rate right or on the low side, your ok but if you end up with too much flow, it can be very bad.
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#19
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![]() I was just trying to clarify what you said.
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#20
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![]() Thanks for the warning. I have a couple of measured buckets that I can test the phosban reactor flow with before installing in my system.
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CadLights 39G Signature Series Started April, 2008 |
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