Arduino Reef Monitor / Lighting Controller

[ScubaSteve]

Hooooo-boy! That's a heck of a build! That'll be a fun one but a bit if a slog! I just finished something similar (not for my tanks, but for some equipment at work, but similar architecture) and it took 200 hours to build the electronics, the equipment and program it! The worst part was that I had only 2 weeks to do it...

If you have a need for custom PCBs, I can point you in the direction of a few good places I have used... But then again, if you know how to design a board you probably know where to have them made!

Have fun!

[_Adrian_]

I have a few choices lol
If I stick to dual layer I can do them here at home ; -)

[theokie]

That open Reef Stuff looks really interesting. I was going to do a Jarduino build a year or two back but with my work schedule an Apex was just more feasible. I bought all the parts for it, just never got around to assembly.

Definitely following along

[_Adrian_]

I have the Arduino Due and the LCD... can get most of the stuff here in town that i need for the better part. The parts for the light fixture will be coming off eBay.
I also have a hot air rework station and the skill to go along with it to so everything SMT if need be. The electronic side its going to be a piece of cake!

The programing might be another story !
I haven't done anything in a VERY LONG time LOL

I hope I can get a copy of his code and change a few things...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-XwAnYvdk4

[_Adrian_]

Well...
Today was a slow day at work, which led me think a bit.
How can I make things simple and avoid a ton of redundant parts without tying up the PWM outputs of the Due
Long story short...
Here's the answer !!!
TI's LM3463 !!
Some of the Key Features that are of interest to us:
- Wide supply voltage range 12V - 95V
- 6 driven channels ( using MOSFET's
- Capable of Analog, PWM dimming OR Serial Control

Right now the only thing I'm debating is the output stage.
In order to keep the board size down I would have to go to a TO220 through hole transistor over the DPAK surface mount units. This way a heat sink can be used rather than using precious board space as a heat sink.

With that being said...
Light Control Module ( LCM ) specs I have in mind are as follows:
- 12V - 48VDC Input
- 6 Channels
- High Current Capable
- Full Control ( Analog, PWM or Serial )

[_Adrian_]

The idea behind this is to reduce the large amount of DC/DC converters ( LDD1000h ) and replace it with a cheaper device ( MOSFET ) that outperforms it.
A better way of going about this is the Vishay SUP50N10. This MOSFET is capable of 50A continuous ( 60A peak ) drain current and 100V are around $1.25 VS the $10 for each LDD1000h which has a puny 1A output.
By moving away from dedicated, expensive DC/DC Current and robbing useful PWM outputs from the micro controller. Now you can drive large chains of either serial or parallel LED's without breaking your wallet!
As stated earlier, on board Input Voltage and Current Monitor will be retained. With a bit of code and this can be used to track power consumption.
This might just be the ultimate solution for those that want a flexible DIY High Power LED Driver / Controller that would allows to start off with a basic setup and move up as budget allows!

[StirCrazy]

Originally Posted by _Adrian_

TI's LM3463 !!
Some of the Key Features that are of interest to us:
- Wide supply voltage range 12V - 95V
- 6 driven channels ( using MOSFET's
- Capable of Analog, PWM dimming OR Serial Control

I like the possibilities this opens, from the description

"The analog dimming control input controls the current of all LEDs while the PWM control inputs control the dimming duty of output channels individually."

with this one you could use the PWM to balance your colors and then use the analog to do your sunrise sunset

Steve

[_Adrian_]

Originally Posted by StirCrazy

I like the possibilities this opens, from the description

"The analog dimming control input controls the current of all LEDs while the PWM control inputs control the dimming duty of output channels individually."

with this one you could use the PWM to balance your colors and then use the analog to do your sunrise sunset

Steve

The problem with that is that you can only choose 1 of those options.
If you have a Reef Angel or similar controller you can use PWM, but if your just starting out and have nothing you cans use some simple pots to control the channels. For those that want something more different, the Arduino route can be used with I2S and a program can be written for control.

Also I noticed something weird this morning...
There's only 4 hard wired dim controls. Seems like Channels 1 and 2 share the same dimmer as well as 3 and 4 share another. channels 5 and 6 are individually controlled.

I sent TI an email to clarify this for me as if this is only a PWM or Analog control only or does it apply to serial control as well.
Keeping fingers crossed either way as sometimes its just a matter of not having enough pins on the device.