Lets see those QT tanks

[BackPackHunter]

When I finally get my tank set up, I'm going to set up a 75g or 90g QT tank
always running, its going to have 2 dividers, that are removable,
(going to silicone 1/2" acrylic strips in the aquarium to the bottom and back and front, so i can slide in different peaces of drilled out acrylic 3/8 thick to divide ... will have different peaces with different size holes depending on the size of fish being QT) and it will let me divide my tank into 1/3 or 1/2... going to be a Bare Bottom, with lid, thats running a 4 bulb Compact Fluorescent for light(because I saved it from a old aquarium), Im going to run 2 Fluval 306 canisters, with hang on skimmer. I will have fake rock in the tank for them to hind in and be happy while they are getting med's if any, (then removed and bleached) after im happy there, I will be removing all meds with carbon, then adding live rock that I will be keeping in my sump, will also be keeping spare foam filters in the sump for bio filtering,

Can anyone add to that? maybe I've over looked something?

I think its cheep insurance to have a good QT tank

The size of the QT tank should reflect on the size of the display tank, and the fish you intend on QT,to keep stress low

My above tank will let me QT 1-3, or a group of schooling fish depending on what fish is on the list to be added next...

[Reef Pilot]

Originally Posted by BackPackHunter

When I finally get my tank set up, I'm going to set up a 75g or 90g QT tank

That is pretty large. Depends on what size fish you want to QT, I guess. Mine is only 30g, but I usually only buy a few fish at a time, and no really large ones. It is not intended as a hospital tank to transfer fish out of my DT, but strictly as a prevention against disease for new fish.

I also have a few cut pieces of 3" PVC pipes for them to hide in. They seem to like that.

Not sure why you want a 2nd canister filter. Or a skimmer. Because you will be doing some major water changes (with hypo), it never gets a chance to build up a lot of nutrients for the length of the QT period.

And I wouldn't be using any meds, except Prazipro. Keeping it simple, but effective, is what matters.

[BackPackHunter]

Originally Posted by Reef Pilot

That is pretty large. Depends on what size fish you want to QT, I guess. Mine is only 30g, but I usually only buy a few fish at a time, and no really large ones. It is not intended as a hospital tank to transfer fish out of my DT, but strictly as a prevention against disease for new fish.

I also have a few cut pieces of 3" PVC pipes for them to hide in. They seem to like that.

Not sure why you want a 2nd canister filter. Or a skimmer. Because you will be doing some major water changes (with hypo), it never gets a chance to build up a lot of nutrients for the length of the QT period.

And I wouldn't be using any meds, except Prazipro. Keeping it simple, but effective, is what matters.

The size of the QT tank should reflect on the size of the display tank, and the fish you intend on QT,to keep stress low



my display is going to be 6'x3'x3'
so in the QT tank will be holding large angels and tangs, and want them to be happy with little stress

the 2 canisters are to move lots of water, again keeping the fish happy
i could just use power heads but i like the extra filtering....

the skimmer is incase of work, I might get called out for a week...
and the less my wife has to do the happier everyone will be...
Happy wife happy life

if the tanks start to become more work for her then feeding, im going to hear about it...

[mrhasan]

Originally Posted by Reef Pilot

Quarantine for new fish: After a few newbie hard lessons in the beginning, I set up a QT for new fish. Initially, this tank was connected as a refugium to my sump, and then disconnected when in use as a QT. I use the hyposalinity routine, and have had great success with acclimating new fish including some more finicky Butterfly fish such as Copperbands and Pearlscales. The entire QT process usually takes 2 or 3 months for me. Here is a good article on the benefits of hypo.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/6/fish

I have always had a permanent QT with a canister filter, and I now keep some live rock in there as well. It is still multi purpose, and I QT some corals in there too. And I use it as an overflow frag tank, when I run out of room in my DT frag rack. I use water from my DT water changes, so no salt costs.

Pretty simple set-up actually. But the key is permanent. Most failures happen because of new set-ups (no stable nitrogen cycle), and the misuse of copper or other chemicals. I have had 100% success rate, when I used hypo. You can also use Prazipro at the beginning before you lower the salinity if you suspect internal parasites. Then after a few days, start the RODI water changes to lower the salinity to 1.009. And to raise, just use the DT tank water from water changes.

Originally Posted by mandyplo

Yea I learned this way too
Lost almost all of my stock and I finally decided to get a QT... SOMEHOW?!?!! Still got ich in my tank right now... My fish seem to be healthy enough how ever to fight it off and I honestly have NO idea how it got back in my tank I took every precaution and still.... ugh

Anyways, I ran my tank without fish for 12 weeks.
I had fish in quarantine after the 12 week period, and treated them in a 20 gallon quarantine tank bare bottom nothing in it but PVC tubing, and a filter with only filter floss.
I treat all of my new fish with copper, specifically seachem Cupramine for 18 days in quarantine.
I mean I THOUGHT I was doing it right? I haven't lost any fish but every once in a while I do see my clown and tang with the occasional break out of 1-5 white spots... then I see nothing again for a while... Like I said I haven't lost anyone, but my fish DO flash so I know something is irritating them whether those white spots are ich or not.
They haven't stopped eating or anything...
Considering going 12 weeks again with all of my fish in quarantine and my display empty...
Really p***** I can't seem to get rid of this bloody parasite.

Thanks for the inputs.

[gregzz4]

You can make your's as simple as a tank, heater, filter and cheap canopy. $100 would cover it used easily

I kept mine running until I finished buying fish and kept new filter foam blocks in my sump (thanks Brad) for a month or more before use
Whenever I populated the QT, I added more blocks to the sump as I toss the used ones

To answer your initial question Raied, here's mine;
It's a 20g with a 15w freshwater bulb (low intensity is best for a QT) and an eggcrate top. The front half of the crate is cut and removable for arm access. I have had wrasses jump through it so you may be better off with a stock-style canopy
I use a 100w Jager and an Aquaclear 50
And a Seachem Ammo Alert badge
That's all you'd need

I used to keep my tank bare bottom, but it currently has tile as it's a close color to sand (the stand is black and reflected the light like a mirror - not very subdued for guys trapped in a small tank)
I blacked-out the back and sides (thanks Albert for the suggestion) with a garbage bag taped in place
I use either a take-out tray, or a take-out lid, for sand. Either depends on who is in QT. The tray is good for wrasses. The lid works well for blennies, gobies etc

For overkill, 'cause I always go overboard;
I installed an Aquaclear Surface Skimmer
I have an 8w hang-on UV run by a Lifeguard 1200
And I have a Tunze 3155 ATO (went through litres/day in the summer)
Plus a Penn-Plax B11 Silent Air battery backup air pump
It's also monitored/temp controlled by my RKE, and has a 120mm PC fan for cooling
And a ground probe as everything is on GFCIs
Oh, and a moonlight

Guess that's about it

Before the tile, black garbage bag and eggcrate top





Newer pic



With a lid for sand and airstones installed

[mrhasan]

Originally Posted by gregzz4

You can make your's as simple as a tank, heater, filter and cheap canopy. $100 would cover it used easily

I kept mine running until I finished buying fish and kept new filter foam blocks in my sump (thanks Brad) for a month or more before use
Whenever I populated the QT, I added more blocks to the sump as I toss the used ones

To answer your initial question Raied, here's mine;
It's a 20g with a 15w freshwater bulb (low intensity is best for a QT) and an eggcrate top. The front half of the crate is cut and removable for arm access. I have had wrasses jump through it so you may be better off with a stock-style canopy
I use a 100w Jager and an Aquaclear 50
And a Seachem Ammo Alert badge
That's all you'd need

I used to keep my tank bare bottom, but it currently has tile as it's a close color to sand (the stand is black and reflected the light like a mirror - not very subdued for guys trapped in a small tank)
I blacked-out the back and sides (thanks Albert for the suggestion) with a garbage bag taped in place
I use either a take-out tray, or a take-out lid, for sand. Either depends on who is in QT. The tray is good for wrasses. The lid works well for blennies, gobies etc

For overkill, 'cause I always go overboard;
I installed an Aquaclear Surface Skimmer
I have an 8w hang-on UV run by a Lifeguard 1200
And I have a Tunze 3155 ATO (went through litres/day in the summer)
Plus a Penn-Plax B11 Silent Air battery backup air pump
It's also monitored/temp controlled by my RKE, and has a 120mm PC fan for cooling
Oh, and a moonlight

Guess that's about it

Before the tile, black garbage bag and eggcrate top





Current pic

Thanks Greg. Its very helpful I really don't want any complicated setup since I don't have the space for it (gonna put it right beside my tank). So anything from 20 to 30 gallon is fine I am guessing? I will probably put a copperband in their for treatment (if I can get a good specimen). What sort of medication do you use? Can cupramine and prazipro be used together? Seems like ich and intestinal worms are the two most common diseases.

[gregzz4]

I edited my post, so theres another pic

I don't use copper. Period.... ........

I have Prazipro on hand but have not needed to use it yet
I also keep Furan-2 on hand as it doesn't destroy any beneficial bacteria, and I keep a bottle of Prime for emergency Nitrite situations, and AM Guard for emergency Ammonia situations

I wouldn't mix any meds together, ever ! Unless both say they can be

I've done the hypo-salinity thing in the past and it worked great for me for MI (ich) and the guys were in QT for a total of 10 weeks

[mrhasan]

Originally Posted by gregzz4

I edited my post, so theres another pic

I don't use copper. Period.... ........

I have Prazipro on hand but have not needed to use it yet
I also keep Furan-2 on hand as it doesn't destroy any beneficial bacteria, and I keep a bottle of Prime for emergency Nitrite situations, and AM Guard for emergency Ammonia situations

I wouldn't mix any meds together, ever ! Unless both say they can be

I've done the hypo-salinity thing in the past and it worked great for me for MI (ich) and the guys were in QT for a total of 10 weeks

One thing is I can't feel comfy with hypo since I heard even a 0.001 can be ineffective and I am pretty sure my refracs accuracy deviates between 0.001 to 0.002. Hence the thought about copper.

[Doug]

Nooooo. Not the striped ones?

[mrhasan]

Originally Posted by Doug

Nooooo. Not the striped ones?

Yap two lined chormis gone! Found one being eaten by the hermit but the other one is MIT.