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#1
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![]() Well I woke up to two dead chromis due to another (possibly 3rd till now!) ich breakdown. Don't really know what happened since everyone was fine and eating like pigs and I fed them what many would say "extremely" generously. Even I used occasional selcon. Really ****ed me off this time.
Anyway, this boxing day, I am getting QT tank setup (and the ATI dimmable fixture ![]() Worked really hard to get the tank to the point of being "sterile of ich" and I was kinda of happy when I saw no ich outbreak when my 1st clownfish was got to the point of no eating and died. Added a 2nd clownfish which was healthy and was in the LFS for a really long time and it was perfectly all right but I started noticing white spots on chromis and the trigger (initially through they were just dusts because of the places they sleep) and now the outbreak. ![]()
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You wouldn't want to see my tank. I don't use fancy equipment and I am a noob ![]() |
#2
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![]() i started a post similar to this last week. didnt really go very far, only got two replies. hopefully you can do better. i would like to do the exact same thing. look for a good deal on boxing day for something smaller, that i can keep running in a back room until its needed. would also like to know the basics that need to be in it. tagging along.
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#3
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![]() Quarantine for new fish: After a few newbie hard lessons in the beginning, I set up a QT for new fish. Initially, this tank was connected as a refugium to my sump, and then disconnected when in use as a QT. I use the hyposalinity routine, and have had great success with acclimating new fish including some more finicky Butterfly fish such as Copperbands and Pearlscales. The entire QT process usually takes 2 or 3 months for me. Here is a good article on the benefits of hypo.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/6/fish I have always had a permanent QT with a canister filter, and I now keep some live rock in there as well. It is still multi purpose, and I QT some corals in there too. And I use it as an overflow frag tank, when I run out of room in my DT frag rack. I use water from my DT water changes, so no salt costs. Pretty simple set-up actually. But the key is permanent. Most failures happen because of new set-ups (no stable nitrogen cycle), and the misuse of copper or other chemicals. I have had 100% success rate, when I used hypo. You can also use Prazipro at the beginning before you lower the salinity if you suspect internal parasites. Then after a few days, start the RODI water changes to lower the salinity to 1.009. And to raise, just use the DT tank water from water changes.
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#4
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![]() Yea I learned this way too
![]() Lost almost all of my stock and I finally decided to get a QT... SOMEHOW?!?!! Still got ich in my tank right now... My fish seem to be healthy enough how ever to fight it off and I honestly have NO idea how it got back in my tank I took every precaution and still.... ugh Anyways, I ran my tank without fish for 12 weeks. I had fish in quarantine after the 12 week period, and treated them in a 20 gallon quarantine tank bare bottom nothing in it but PVC tubing, and a filter with only filter floss. I treat all of my new fish with copper, specifically seachem Cupramine for 18 days in quarantine. I mean I THOUGHT I was doing it right? I haven't lost any fish but every once in a while I do see my clown and tang with the occasional break out of 1-5 white spots... then I see nothing again for a while... Like I said I haven't lost anyone, but my fish DO flash so I know something is irritating them whether those white spots are ich or not. They haven't stopped eating or anything... Considering going 12 weeks again with all of my fish in quarantine and my display empty... Really p***** I can't seem to get rid of this bloody parasite.
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Patience is key in the hobby of reef keeping. All you can do is wait, and wait, rip your hair out, and then wait some more. |
#5
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![]() Quote:
![]() Problem is I don't have the required space for something big but can still try to accommodate something.
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You wouldn't want to see my tank. I don't use fancy equipment and I am a noob ![]() |
#6
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![]() Ekkk! I forgot to dip (ran out) my frags will my fish get it ?!
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#7
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![]() Umm ya, aahh, I never noticed. I was thinking of getting one of those starter kits that come with lights, filters, heaters, etc. should be able to find one for under a hundred bucks.
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#8
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![]() Quote:
![]()
__________________
You wouldn't want to see my tank. I don't use fancy equipment and I am a noob ![]() |
#9
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![]() I wouldn't be too sure about that. I have read of others that got ich in their tanks, when they hadn't added any new fish for a long time, and it happened after adding corals.
To be safe, I double dip my corals, first with the dip solution and then rinse again in tank water before adding to my display tank. If for some reason, I have to keep the old plug or rock with the new frag, then I also QT it for a week or so, and then double dip a second time before adding to my DT. The other reason, of course, is to try and prevent AEFW from getting into my DT. So far, so good, but AEFW (and other pests) are actually my greatest fear, not Ich, when it comes to corals.
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#10
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![]() Quote:
__________________
You wouldn't want to see my tank. I don't use fancy equipment and I am a noob ![]() |
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