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#1
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![]() I like #1
In #2 If your return is under water like that you will need to also figure out a way to stop the syphon when the pump shuts off
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC |
#2
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![]() I would use a lockline to move it to the surface. It will be higher than the water level (or right at it)
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#3
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![]() Quote:
Also when I say front and sides, I calling the pane with overflow the side and 5x2 pane the front. Last edited by sphelps; 03-03-2012 at 04:52 PM. |
#4
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![]() I am going to throw a problem in here. design 1 has two inside 90 degree corners in the back pain, which are inherent stress points in cut glass. so in-fact tank 1 could actually be weaker on the back.
as for looks tank 2 will look much cleaner from the front and a coast to coast overflow is nice for a few reasons, better surface skimming and also because of the extra length it has more volume. the only issue I have is how are you doing your returns in number 2 my vote is for design 2 Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#5
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![]() #2 for me. All you have to do is have your everflow notch for the returns and use lock line. that's what I did. My returns are drilled in the bottom and they come up, then bend into the tank under water. I even have acrylic on top to finish off the look.
Here's a pic. ![]() ![]() |
#6
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![]() Matt has the right idea there, essentially an internal overflow on the side if you're looking for a full width overflow.
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#7
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![]() Quote:
Quote:
![]() The notched side in design 1 is not only supported by the overflow but it's signficantly shorter in length than the front... You know whole Mc/I deal, M being FxL.... |
#8
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![]() Quote:
Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
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