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Old 10-07-2010, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Aquattro View Post
Wonder how that works with bracing? Brace just covers the top of the cutout?

like a euro brace? or center brace? if its a center brace hmmm.. you would be losing the adhesive surface, would almost be better to remove it and put two smaller ones 1/3 from each end. this would be better for the lights also. maybe ask Sea star if they are ripping it apart to re seal it anyways they might have some good ideas on how to do it.

what ever you end up doing if you cut teeth again I'll slap ya next time I am in victoria. nice smoth rounded edge, quiet and much easier to keep clean.

Steve
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Last edited by StirCrazy; 10-07-2010 at 09:09 PM.
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Old 10-07-2010, 09:17 PM
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like a euro brace? or center brace? if its a center brace hmmm..

Steve
eurobrace. Currently the tank has a plastic trim with dual braces, which gotta go.
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Old 10-07-2010, 09:21 PM
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Chin, I've got an in-sump skimmer. My current sump is baffled at 45/15 inches, and the 45 section holds the reactors, the smaller chamber contains to pickup for the return pump and the float valve. I'm hoping to use this sump if I can fit it in...

I'm going to have to go external plumbing, just found out the bottom is tempered, so that choice is made for me. I could minimize exposed stuff if I drill the back glass and have an overflow inside, but then I'd still need to be away from the wall, and if so, might as well go with external overflow. I think...

Oh, and I'm going with sand this time. It's going to be a display in the LR, so I'm going for the natural reef look. I also miss all the life in the sand, and GF wants a madarin
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Last edited by Aquattro; 10-07-2010 at 09:25 PM.
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Old 10-07-2010, 09:40 PM
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Unless you custom build the tank, external overflows are very difficult to retrofit. How do you get the one section lower than the rest of the tank? A small internal box is much easier.
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Old 10-07-2010, 09:43 PM
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could be a dumb question as ive never done it but could you remove the bottom panel and exchange it for the back if they are the same measurements or remove the bottom and add a different piece??? not sure how much it would cost but maybe something to consider so you have the tank you want

what are you doing to support the floor or is it on concrete??
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Old 10-07-2010, 09:47 PM
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Unless you custom build the tank, external overflows are very difficult to retrofit. How do you get the one section lower than the rest of the tank? A small internal box is much easier.
I was thinking dremel?? I was told that it's not that difficult (never tried personally tho)

My current tank has a small overflow box internally, not really annoying, but I imagine the tank would be nicer without it
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Old 10-07-2010, 09:54 PM
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you can dremel glass?
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Old 10-07-2010, 09:55 PM
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with a diamond tip blade you can cut just about anything with anything
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Old 10-07-2010, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Aquattro View Post
I was thinking dremel?? I was told that it's not that difficult (never tried personally tho)

My current tank has a small overflow box internally, not really annoying, but I imagine the tank would be nicer without it
I used a dremmel on mine after I notched it with a glass cutter to even it out. you need the expensive diamond bits and you need the extender whip that lets you use it like a pen grinder as you need to have water running on the glass constantly to prevent it from getting hot.

Brad, I was just thinking.. where exactly in the house are you putting this?

Steve
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Old 10-07-2010, 10:37 PM
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Steve, Seastar won't cut a notch, only drill holes. And I don't need to take the tank apart, just reseal the corners.

Drains will likely be 1" pipes for the herbie, I'll be running maybe 1000gph, probably less.

Tank is going in the living room, against the wall backing onto the kitchen. Or it's going into the bathroom of the suite, depends on weight
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