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#1
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![]() Oh and another tip for anyone using a RO or RO/DI system. Adding a booster pump to the feed of the unit will increase the efficiency and increase the product by a large degree. It can be a far more attractive option than spending the big bucks for a larger RO/DI system.
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#2
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![]() Quote:
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#3
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![]() Nice. I really like some of the solutions you have.
I think for the time being I am going to use the 55gal rain barrel that I have in my basement to store the waste and then use a sump pump that I also have to feed either a rain barrel outside or a drip irrigation set up for my shrub beds in the front of my house. We have probably 25+ small shrubs plus trees, ornamental grasses and annuals that can use some watering. The current idea is to run 1/4" drip lines to the plants under the mulch and then put the sump pump on a timer to water them. Since the rainbarrel in the basement has a overflow near the top I will just put that into the drian in the basement for the time being. We already have dual flush toilet as our house is certified Built Green already and I cant be bother to haul buckets up to manually flush the toilets. I may also look into the hotwater option too. Andrew |
#4
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![]() Not sure about this, but the hot water option may only function properly if your system uses a conventional hot water tank. You mention a green home, so I suspect you may have a 'tankless' or on demand hot water heater? If so, I'd research that a little more before purchasing the 'hot water option'. Besides, that involves another bit of additional plumbing and possibly another booster pump, pressure switch, etc.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#5
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![]() Additionally you may want to consider the implications of running high mineral content water into a tankless water heater given the scaling issues. Same scaling would occur in a hot water tank but there is a larger margin for scale buildup before it becomes a problem in a hot water tank.
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#6
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![]() Sadly, I dont have a tankless system. They were too far along into the building process to put one in. I dont understand why they didnt put one in to begin with.
Now I am wondering if the higly mineralized RODI waste may be bad for the hotwater tank. Also, I prefer soft water for showering etc., so adding harder water may not be to my liking. Flushing toilets on the other hand, I dont really care what the water is as long as it gets the job done. Hmmmm... Andrew |
#7
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![]() Tis exactly the point i was trying to convey. The issues with the high mineral content water is that the mineral scales in the hot water tank creating an insulating layer. Raises the cost to heat a tank of water along with shortening the life of the hot water tank due to the additional heating required throughout of it's lifespan. Toilets however don't suffer from the same issues making them perfect!!
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